tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-60216175436982776362024-03-13T21:07:22.220-07:00Mary MalloyUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6021617543698277636.post-68173484219623387292017-10-25T10:30:00.003-07:002017-10-25T10:36:42.266-07:00The End of the Pilgrimage Road, 2017 (with reference to the same in 1997)<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; margin-right: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: auto; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; tab-stops: .5in; text-autospace: ideograph-numeric ideograph-other;">
<b><span style="color: black; font-family: "" "times new roman" "" , "serif"; font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">October 25, 2017</span><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 150%;">I am inspired by my newly
redesigned website to return to the blog and finish up the story of how I
undertook to update the pilgrimage of my youth. There is one good excuse for
leaving it unfinished, and that is that Chaucer’s pilgrims never got to
Canterbury, never returned to London, and never finished the stories they were
meant to tell.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>My hearty companions and I did, however finish our trip. I
returned home on the 10<sup>th</sup> of June, Anna went on to Berlin for the
summer and Kathy and Jeannie went back to Seattle, all well satisfied with our
adventure. Along the way we saw two Shakespeare plays, at the Globe and the
Royal Shakespeare theatres; went to four evening vesper services, at
Westminster Abbey, Christ College at Oxford, Winchester Cathedral and
Canterbury Cathedral; we had high tea at the Randolph Hotel in Oxford and the
Pump Room at Bath; and we stepped on stones that were stepped on by previous
pilgrims for a thousand years or so.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 150%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I am going to end my pilgrimage blog with three chapters
from by book of twenty years ago. The first talks of leaving Southwark, from
which place Chaucer’s pilgrims departed, which deals with some of the problems
of research and of recreating historical events. The second and third parts are
the final chapters of the book, and describe the road into Canterbury from
Harbledown (where Chaucer left his pilgrims), my first view of the great cathedral,
the story of Thomas Becket (who I credit with much of the inspiration for the
whole damned enterprise), but gives the last word to Alison, the Wife of Bath.
Here I should also give a plug for my novel <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pilgrimage
Walk,</i> which grew out of this experience—and there I gave the last word to
Anna!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">Chapter Seventeen:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>Redy to
wenden on my pilgrimage</i><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 1.0in 1.5in 5.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Bifel
that, in that seson on a day,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 1.0in 1.5in 5.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In
Southwerk at the Tabard as I lay<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 1.0in 1.5in 5.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Redy
to wenden on my pilgrimage<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 1.0in 1.5in 5.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>To
Caunterbury with ful devout corage,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 1.0in 1.5in 5.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>At
night was come into that hostelrye<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Wel
nyne and twenty in a companye,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 1.0in 1.5in 5.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Of
sondry folk, by aventure y-falle<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 1.0in 1.5in 5.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In
felawshipe, and pilgrims were they alle,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>That
toward Caunterbury wolden ryde.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>The
Canterbury Tales<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Belloc’s
old road is made up of best guesses about a path that might have been take by
pilgrims travelling from Winchester to Canterbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No such guesswork is necessary to determine
the route from London to Canterbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Chaucer did not leave us a map, but he gave us signposts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Several places are mentioned in passing in
the text.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The trip begins at the Tabard
Inn in Southwark.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pilgrims stop to
rest a few miles later at St. Thomas’s Watering.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They travel through Deptford, bypass
Greenwich, mention Rochester and Sittingbourne, pick up some additional
pilgrims at Boughten-under-Bleen, and end just short of Canterbury at “Bob-up-and-doun,”
usually thought to mean Harbledown.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
whole length of this route is defined by an ancient Roman Road known as
“Watling Street,” on which people have travelled between London and the coast
for about two thousand years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When
Chaucer’s pilgrims made their trip, around 1387, this Pilgrim’s Way was well
established.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The story begins in
Southwark, across London Bridge from the center of the capitol.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When London Bridge was the only bridge,
Southwark was the gateway to London, and along the Borough High Street were
lined the coaching inns from which travelers set out to every destination in
Britain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Along this track the Wife of
Bath travelled, and Thomas Becket, and Queen Emma, and Edward the Confessor,
and Chaucer, and Charles Dickens, and all the kings Henry, and Jane
Austen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is the one sure road that all
of them traversed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now it was my
turn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Before starting on the next phase
of my own pilgrimage, however, I wanted to get the lay of the land, and I invited
Joannie to accompany on a ramble around Southwark as I scouted things out.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The first thing to look for
were remnants of the age of Chaucer, and there are very few of those left.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In medieval times the influence of Winchester
reached north all the way to the Thames, and the Bishop of Winchester had a
palace in Southwark as his local residence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Remnants of the walls of Winchester Palace are still standing, with the
stone tracery of an ancient stained glass window visible high up in the tallest
remaining wall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The other medieval
structure in Southwark of which some remnants remain, is the church now known
as Southwark Cathedral.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Some say that in the ninth
century St. Swithun, who was then Bishop of Winchester, built a priory here
which came to be known as “St. Mary Overie.” The name means “St. Mary over the
water,” a moniker obviously chosen by Londoners rather than Winchesterites (for
whom it would have been something like “St. Mary over a long stretch of
road”).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A different creation myth for
the church makes it a nunnery founded by a woman named Mary who was the
daughter of one of the Thames ferrymen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Though the building has its
roots in the Middle Ages, it has over the years been damaged by fires, rebuilt,
had its roof collapse, been rebuilt, fallen into decrepitude, been restored,
and generally reflected the changes in the neighborhood around it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And what a neighborhood!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chaucer must have visited this church.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the last decade of his life, the Bishop of
Winchester was Cardinal Henry Beaufort, the son of Chaucer’s patron John of
Gaunt, and Beaufort oversaw many repairs, including the completion of the
tower.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chaucer’s friend John Gower, who
may have provided him with the outline of the Wife of Bath’s Tale, is buried
here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In a portrait effigy, Gower lies
with his head resting on a pile of books.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Also buried here is Edward Shakespeare who, with his brother Will, was a
member of the parish in the decades before and after 1600.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>John Harvard grew up in the
neighborhood and attended the church school before emigrating to America in
1637.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He left his library of 400 books
and half his estate to a newly-founded college in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and
consequently got the place named after him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Harvard was also associated with the Queen’s Head Inn, one of the
coaching inns that lined the High Street.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I picked up a 1907 biography of Harvard to see if I could find out more
about him, but it quickly became obvious that the author, Henry Shelley, had
found almost no details on the life of John Harvard and consequently had
written a book about what his life </span><i><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">might</span></i><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"> have been like if he were basically like other people of
the time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Shelley makes a wonderfully wacky
contention that John Harvard’s parents were probably introduced to one another
by William Shakespeare because Harvard’s mom was from Stratford-upon-Avon, like
Shakespeare, and the Globe Theatre was in Southwark, where Harvard’s dad
lived.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Harvard lost his father, two
sisters, and two of his three brothers to the plague in 1625.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His mother married twice more in quick
succession and was quickly widowed each time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>With monies inherited from her husbands, she apparently purchased the
Queen’s Head Inn while John was at Cambridge University, and she left it to him
when she died in 1635, just as he was graduating.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Within two years he had emigrated to
Charlestown, Massachusetts, and a year later he was dead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Friends of the University which he never had
a chance to see, donated the funds for a memorial chapel in Southwark
Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There is a reference to the baptism of
John Harvard in the records of the church and from the entries surrounding it
you get a sense of what the neighborhood was like in the early years of the
seventeenth century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Moms don’t get a
mention in the record, but the other babies baptised that week get listed along
with their fathers and their fathers’ occupations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In addition to Harvard’s father, who was a
butcher, the other dads of the week included a victualer, an oarmaker, two
watermen, and a brewer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Southwark was then
the center of transportation not only for the inns that lined the High Street,
but for the waterway of the Thames.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
was also the center of entertainment. You could watch plays by Shakespeare and
Marlowe there, you could also watch bears being baited.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those were the glory years of Southwark.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>By the time Dickens was spending time
there in the nineteenth century, Southwark had become poor and grimy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When structural repairs were made to London
Bridge the road bed around the church was raised, leaving it below street
level.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To add injury to this insult, in
1841 they built a railway viaduct right through the yard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The neighborhood was now by then so congested
and so poor that the church fell on hard times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It had, at the time of the Reformation,
became the parish church for Southwark and the name was changed to St. Saviour.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As the Church of England reorganized
itself over the next several centuries, the diocese of Winchester was curtailed
and Southwark became a part of the diocese of Rochester.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the turn of the twentieth century,
Southwark became the seat of its own diocese and St. Saviour became Southwark
Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since that time it has been
extensively restored.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The thing that most surprised us in the
cathedral was its active lived-in look.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It’s the first old church I’ve seen which still paints its
monuments.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From a preservation
perspective it gives me pause, but as it is such a long tradition in the
church, there is something wonderful about it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Harvard alums paid for a nice chapel, and I was glad to see a plaque
dedicated to the memory of Sam Wanamaker, the American actor who zealously
worked to build the replica of the Globe Theatre around the corner, and who
died before it was finished.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>From the
cathedral Joannie and I crossed the High Street to see what was left of the
great coaching inns.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s easy to see from
the map where they were.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Each was on a
courtyard that opened from the main street, and the names of the alleys leading
into them still bear the names of the old inns: the George, the King’s Head,
the White Hart, the Queen’s Head (inherited by John Harvard from his mother),
the Spur, and of course the Tabard, from which the Wife of Bath and her
companions set out for Canterbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Tabard
was originally built as a hostel for pilgrims in 1306, eighty or so years
before Alison and company.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The founder
was the Abbot of Hyde, whose abbey site I had visited a week earlier just
outside the Winchester walls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In 1539
the property was taken over by Thomas and Henry Tabard, who must have taken
their surname from the place (which had itself been named for a sleeveless
leather coat.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It changed hands again in
1590 after a fire and was renamed the “Talbot,” the symbol for which was a
greyhound dog.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Over the next generation
the former abbots lodge was turned into a brewhouse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The whole of
the medieval building was destroyed in a fire in 1676 that swept through the
neighborhood and leveled all the inns.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The Talbot was entirely rebuilt and reopened in 1681.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That building stood for two hundred years,
into the age of photography, and a number of wonderful pictures survive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In 1873 it was advertised for sale, then
consisting of “the Talbot Public House, and other buildings in the inn yard,
including a very Substantial Hop Warehouse of Six Lofty Floors, (Recently
Erected): also Two Houses and Shops.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Two years later it was demolished, and though a pub called the Tabard
opened on the site for a time, today nothing remains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was rather sad to see it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The name of the street is Tabard, so there is
no mistaking the location, but no plaque marks it for the interested pilgrim
and the people who work there now, in a quasi-industrial building called
“Tabard House,” informed me that they had never read the <i>Canterbury Tales</i>
and consequently had no interest in talking about it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>At least the George survives and
Joannie and I went there for lunch to regain our spirits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like the Tabard/Talbot, the George Inn was
destroyed in the big Southwark fire of 1676, but unlike the Tabard, the
building which was built at that time still survives, and in it one can still
see the courtyard formation of the medieval coaching inns.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Though it is now only about a quarter of its
original size, it is a wonderful bit of the past and easy to transport yourself
back there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Except for some solid and interesting
Victorian buildings on the High Street, most of the neighborhood is composed of
awful buildings, built in the post-War period of unspeakable architectural
crimes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is dominated by London Bridge
Station with its access for trains and pedestrians, and the big complex of
Guy’s Hospital, descended from a hospital originally built in 1173 and called
St. Thomas’ Hospital after Becket.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Though the modern hospital is not
architecturally charming, there is an interesting history to the building which
preceded it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was founded by Gilbert Foliot,
the Bishop of London, who was excommunicated by Becket for participating in the
coronation of Henry III, an honor which Becket believed belonged only to
himself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bishop Foliot bowed to the
popularity of the Becket cult by naming his new hospital, which opened the year
Becket was canonized, after his enemy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Centuries later, when Becket was declared an enemy of the state by Henry
VIII, the name of the hospital was changed to St. Thomas the Apostle, and later
the new Guy’s Hospital overtook the neighborhood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Florence Nightingale founded the first
nursing school here.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>As we ate our lunch at the George,
Joannie and I read through brochures of the neighborhood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries,
the Thames waterfront in Southwark was said to have teemed with pirates and
privateers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Walter Raleigh and Francis
Drake marched around these parts, preparing themselves for their great sea
voyages, and a replica of Drake’s <i>Golden Hinde</i> is one of the local
attractions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Clink Prison is also
here, from which the slang term for all prisons is derived.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was originally run by the Bishop of
Winchester as a place to incarcerate prisoners who were charged within the
jurisdiction of the church rather than the state, and so it was at the heart of
what caused the breakdown in relations between Becket and his king, Henry
II.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Later, when civil criminals began to
be sent there, it was located conveniently near the sailorizing community and
that undoubtedly kept it occupied.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Certainly by Dickens’ day, Southwark was seen to have a pretty seamy
criminal element.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It was nice to have Joannie with me on
this day, especially as we sat at the George and I prepared myself for the
final stage of the walk to Canterbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We traded stories about jobs and family and travel, much as my old pal
Alison must have done with her companions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The conversation inevitably turned to that party of 600 years
earlier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Who were they?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One was a sea captain like Peg Brandon, my
stalwart companion of the week before, one was Chaucer himself, and one was the
Tabard innkeeper, Harry Bailey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chaucer
and Bailey were both actual persons; their companions were born in the brain of
Chaucer, but they were based on types that must have been circulating around
Southwark at the time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A number of Chaucer’s pilgrims were
church people, and the irreverent way in which he depicts them is testimony to
the breakdown of the church’s power by the end of the fourteenth century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The prioress is the highest ranking among
them, both socially and ecclesiastically.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>She has a retinue that includes a nun and three priests.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is also a monk, a friar, a pardoner
(with his bag of fake relics to sell), and a summoner, who summoned people to
the church court and probably threw a bunch of them into the Clink.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The only reverent one among them is the
poorest, a parson who travels with his ploughman brother.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Multiple castes of English society are
represented among Chaucer’s pilgrims.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At
the top is a knight who travels with his son as squire, and a yeoman servant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is also a franklyn, who owns an estate,
and a reeve, who oversees the management of someone else’s estate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a scholar, a doctor, a maunciple
(who was something like a law clerk), and a bunch of middle class
tradespeople.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is where the weaver
Alison fits into the lineup, along with a tapestry maker, a dyer, a
haberdasher, a miller, a cook, a carpenter, and a merchant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
independent middle class was a new phenomenon during Chaucer’s lifetime.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When he was a boy of about ten bubonic
plague, the Black Death, swept into England from the continent and decimated so
much of the population that the survivors found themselves with expanded
opportunities.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Serfs left the bondage of
their feudal manor lords and moved around the countryside or even struck out
for the city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the period following
the first wave of the plague, England changed dramatically.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the point at which hedgerows were
planted to break up the land into the smaller plots of yeoman farmers,
independent tradesmen began to flourish in the cities, and the dominant
language changed from French to English.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>If Chaucer had been born a hundred years earlier, his French-speaking
party of pilgrims would have included the ecclesiastics and the knight, but
none of the rest of the party.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Certainly
Alison would not have come to London as a professional weaver with an income of
her own.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>With the rise
of the middle class, pilgrimages also became popular.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was not because these jolly tradespeople
were particularly holy or reverent, in fact they were the opposite.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the pilgrimage was a legitimate way to
see the world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was an excuse for
travel within a well-developed and acceptable framework.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was like a guided tour with published
itineraries, specified routes, souvenir shops, and travelling companions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It allowed a woman like the Wife of Bath to
travel by herself in safety, without losing dignity or blemishing her
character.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The lack of
holiness is evident in the way that Chaucer treats the clerics in the
party.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The monk and the prioress are
both very rich and used to living well (she is also a raving anti-Semite, whose
tale describes how horrible Jews like to murder innocent little Christian
children and throw their bodies into muck heaps).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pardoner is a crook, the friar a
womanizer, and the summoner, who is a drunk and a blackmailer, taunts the friar
by telling him a little story about where friars spend eternity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A friar in hell notices that he’s the only
friar ther and asks the question, “Where is the nest of freres in this
place?”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To which he gets the answer:
“Right so as bees out swarmen from an hyve, Out of the develes ers ther gonne
dryve.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Chaucer once
beat a friar and was fined two shillings as punishment, so he wasn’t exactly a
reverent man, but it still seems amazing that he got away with being so
disdainful of the Catholic Church.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One
has to keep in mind that the thirteenth century was a really a low point for
the church, and it wasn’t just due to false relics, dubious indulgences,
wealthy bishops, and fornicating priests.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Ten years before our pilgrims headed down the road the “Great Schism”
ripped the church apart.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were two
popes!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The English backed their guy,
Urban, in Rome, but the French set up their own pope in Avignon, France.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For forty years each claimed to be the true,
honest-to-God pope, and the situation began to raise doubts among even the most
faithful catholics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>So the
rationale for making a pilgrimage had as much to do with travel and adventure
as veneration.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was right in step.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">Nearing the End: From Harbledown to Canterbury<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Harbledown was called “Bob-up-and-Down”
by Chaucer and every pilgrim stopped here, not just to dismount and walk into
Canterbury, but to see the Becket relics preserved in St. Nicholas Church.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Originally built as a leper church in 1150,
it quickly became associated with the pilgrimage to Becket’s tomb after his
murder in 1170.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I went into the church
and found three nuns there, two Americans and a Brit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a stained glass window in the church,
from the middle of the nineteenth century that depicted Sir Galahad looking at
the Holy Grail held out to him by an angel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In the background was another knight, oblivious to the vision and still
aimlessly seeking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Dutch scholar and cleric Erasmus
visited this church after a pilgrimage to Canterbury accompanied by John Colet,
the Dean of St. Paul’s Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
year was 1514, the Reformation had not yet come to England, and these were two
Catholic clerics who both spoke out for reform in the church.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The cult of relics had descended into a
pathetic sham by that time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Erasmus
wrote about his arrival at this church.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;">Not far from Canterbury we came into a great hollow
and straightway, moreover bowing so down, with hills of either side, that a man
cannot escape, nor it cannot be avoided, but he must needs ride that way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Upon the left hand of the way, there is an
almshouse for old people, from them runneth one out, as soon as they hear a
horseman coming, he casteth holy water upon him, and anon he offereth him the
overleather of a shoe bound about with an iron hoop, wherein is a glass like a
precious stone, they that kiss it give a piece of money.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>[Colet,
his companion] rode upon my left hand near the almshouse, he cast holy water
upon him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He took it in worth not
so.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When the shoe was proferred him, he
asked what he meant by it, saith he, it is St. Thomas shoe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thereat he fumed and was very angry, and
turned toward me:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>what (saith he) meane
these beasts, that would have us kiss the shoes of every good man?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Why do they not likewise give us to kiss the
spittle, and other filth and dirt of the body?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I was sorry for the old man, and gave him a piece of money to comfort
him withall.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The relics had lost meaning for
them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wandered out of the church and
down toward a pilgrims’ well in the yard. Carved into the stone above it are
three feathers, identifying this as the well of the Edward, the Black
Prince.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I would meet him soon enough at
Canterbury Cathedral as his famous tomb and effigy lie adjacent to the spot
where Becket’s shrine stood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Behind the church was a view to the
west over the green fields of Kent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An
oust-house for drying hops was in the foreground, with its strange bent
chimney. I sat on the grass by the well and read Hilaire Belloc’s description
of arriving in Canterbury. Sadly, for him, after determining and following the
path, the pilgrimage ultimately held no meaning.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>He walked in the winter, timing his
journey so that he would arrive at Canterbury Cathedral on the evening of
December 29th, on the day and at the hour of Becket’s murder.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And yet he felt nothing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“There was another thing to be duly done
before I could think my task was over,” he wrote.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;">The city whose name and spell had drawn to itself
all the road, and the shrine which was its core remained to be worshipped.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The cathedral and the mastery of its central
tower stood like a demand; but I was afraid, and the fear was just.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I thought I should be like the men who lifted
the last veil in the ritual of the hidden goddess, and having lifted it found
there was nothing beyond, and that all the scheme was a cheat; or like what
those must feel at the approach of death who say there is nothing in death but
an end and no transition. I knew what had fallen upon the original soul of the
place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I feared to find, and I found,
nothing but stones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Now I feared
it too.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What if I didn’t feel
anything?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I sat for too long on the
grass before the Black Prince’s Well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
finally rose, rather somberly, and walked back to the church, and then beyond
it to the crest of the steep hill on which it sits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once the hill is conquered, the road makes a
gentle curve downward and as the pilgrim looks up, THERE IT IS.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Canterbury Cathedral comes into view, shining
blue in the distance, its towers rising above all the surrounding
buildings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I stopped in
my tracks, mesmerized and paralyzed, and sobbed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wasn’t like Belloc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had worried for nothing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt it and it was powerful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was my destination.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Each of the great cathedrals along the
way had a distinct color in my memory: Wells was a warm brown, Salisbury was
white from every vantage point and all distances, Winchester was a solid grey,
but Canterbury shone blue.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was with
growing anticipation and emotion that I crossed the highway, met up with the
North Downs Way and Belloc’s Pilgrim Road from Winchester and proceeded along
the ancient track of all Pilgrims coming from the west or north.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not far from here was Godmersham, another
home associated with Jane Austen, but by now the momentum to reach the magnet
that was Canterbury was too strong to think of making a side trip, even for my
beloved Jane.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The last week of the walk—the part that
actually followed Chaucer’s pilgrims—was the hardest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Except for Rochester, it had too little left
of the ancient past and too little left of the countryside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was probably the path itself that did
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Romans built the straight thoroughfare
of Watling Street to get them expeditiously from London to the coast and more
than a thousand years later it’s still the way to go for the person with a
destination in mind and a time table to follow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It is no wonder that the route followed by the pilgrims to Canterbury
would evolve into a super highway with all the development that accompanies it,
but it makes it a less wonderful walk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The ambler is not looking for the modern England of cars and trains and
schedules and convenience markets, but of the olde England of wields and wolds
and copses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>This was the last moment I would have in anything resembling
the English countryside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I thought back
to my first day at Inglesbatch, with the great ancient barn into which modern
machinery will not fit, and of all the things I had seen along the way:
bluebells in the forest, big yellow dogs, slopes filled with sheep and fields
of hay, small square churches, the landscape seen from the height of the
downs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Peg had referred more than once
to the “ubiquitous blue Land Rover,” and I had ever since thought of the
“ubiquitous” things: blue land rovers in the rural districts, semi-detached
houses in the burbs, long undulating rows of attached houses in the urban
sprawl, Boots the Chemist, jacket potatoes, war memorials.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We want to think of England as rural, even
though my last week was probably the more realistic representation of England
on the verge of the millennium.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A thousand years ago, on the verge of
that other millennium, pilgrims had gone to the shrines to protect themselves
from the catastrophes predicted to come with the magical number.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was strange to think that human beings
were really not all that much different as we faced the next one.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>That one tantalizing glimpse of Oz
disappeared as I descended the hill.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Before I actually reached the cathedral I had to pass one more important
church for the pilgrim, St. Dunstan’s, just outside the west gate in the
medieval town wall of Canterbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
at St. Dunstan’s that Henry II had, on a July day in 1174, taken off his shoes
and put on a sack to go and prostrate himself at the tomb of Becket, the man
who had been his friend, his enemy, and ultimately the victim of his careless
rage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>St. Dunstan’s is also famous for being
the place where Thomas More’s daughter buried his decapitated head in the
family vault of her husband.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>More was to
Henry VIII what Becket was to Henry II, the friend and Chancellor who would not
submit to the religious views of his king.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I have always admired Thomas More, maybe because of the wonderful Paul
Scofield portrayal of him in <i>A Man for all Seasons.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Among the various guys who became saints
because they were martyrs for their faith, he has always seemed like the real
article.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>More wrote extensively on a wide
variety of topics, often with humor and imagination.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He is thought to have helped Henry VIII edit
his book “An Assertion of the Seven Sacraments,” in which Henry argued against
Martin Luther’s doctrine, and for which he was awarded the title “Defender of
the Faith” by Pope Leo X.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After he broke
from the pope and started his own church, Henry demanded an oath of loyalty to
his new church and to himself as its head from everyone in his court; Thomas
More was one of only a handful to refuse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>For More it was not so much a defense of Catholicism <i>per se,</i> but
an argument that each man should decide his own faith, and not have it dictated
by the king.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Before he was executed, he spoke to the
crowd, proclaiming himself “the King’s good servant, but God’s first.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After the axe fell, his head was displayed on
a pike on London Bridge until his daughter was able to retrieve it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What a horrible, grisly, moment for her; it
is actually too awful to think about. Surprisingly, it took 400 years for
Thomas More to be canonized.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By the time
he was made a saint and his head became a holy relic in 1935, St. Dunstan’s
Church had long been an outpost of the Church of England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nonetheless, More’s head made it a pilgrimage
site for Catholics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(In 1978 on the
500th anniversary of his birth, the church opened the tomb just to verify that
there was a head in there. There was.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>By More’s time the pilgrimage had long
since peaked and declined.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He was
himself skeptical of relics, indulgences, and of the honestly devout intentions
of pilgrims.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He said of pilgrims in the
sixteenth century:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;">There be cathedral churches into which the country
come with procession, and the woman following the cross with many an unwomanly
song. ... the most part that cometh, cometh for no devotion at all, but only
for good company to babble thitherward, and drinke dronke there, and then dance
and reel homeward.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Hmm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I guess “Jerusalem” did not qualify as an unwomanly song, but there had
been those moments on my procession across the country when I had babbled here
and dronke cider there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In two days I
would dance and reel homeward.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Before I left St. Dunstan’s I dropped a
fingernail onto the floor near the stone that marked the burial place of Thomas
More’s head.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had scattered my
fingernail relics across England, one at the so-called tomb of Arthur and
Guinevere in Glastonbury, one at the so-called tomb of Edward the Martyr in
Shaftesbury, one high up on the west face of Salisbury Cathedral, one at the
place where Jane Austen died, one at Winchester Cathedral where she is buried,
one at the so-called tomb of Alfred the Great, one at the house where Jane
Austen lived in Chawton, one at the tomb of Edward the Confessor, and now, the
ninth one here at the tomb of Thomas More.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The last one was saved for Canterbury Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And now the time had come to go there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the door of St. Dunstan’s you can see
the west gate of Canterbury and the High Street stretching beyond it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I love the way a medieval wall defines
the confines of the ancient core of a city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>To pass through the gate is to enter the past.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At Canterbury we are fortunate that the west
gate still stands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the early nineteenth
century they almost tore it down so that the menagerie caravans of Mr.
Wombwell’s travelling show could get through.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Thank goodness at the last minute the Mayor stepped in and prevented it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There was once a church sitting right
on this gate called the Church of the Holy Cross, which was probably named
after a relic of the same contained therein.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>An even more interesting relic inspired the name of a pub just outside
the gate, “The Archbishop’s Finger.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(If
I ever become a saint, the “History Pilgrim’s Fingernail” could go
nearby.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I passed through the gate and
onto the main street of Canterbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
old half-timbered buildings seem to lean right over the roadway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I stumbled along with ever growing emotion
and anticipation until I saw a sign that said simply “Cathedral.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A glance to the left brought the
magnificent carved “Christ Church gate” into view, and a few more steps brought
me into the yard of the Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had
not been able to see it again since that moment on the hill near Harbledown and
it was a wondrous sight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I paid my fee
and in a fairly high state of agitation moved along the nave to the place where
Becket was murdered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His name, “Thomas,”
is carved in the floor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Belloc was
wrong.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is very moving.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There is a small chapel near the spot
and I ducked in there to have a good cry for a half hour or so.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As I rummaged in my little belt pack for some
tissues, I noticed the altar, carved to represent human skulls and
thigh-bones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The objective of this
realistic-looking pile of bones was clearly not to give comfort.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bones. Bones. Bones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The whole of the cathedral was designed to
give the maximum effect to the display of bones—and it is fabulous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the main entrance through the west door,
the cathedral rises up and up to the empty place that once held the
shrine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beyond it, at the very eastern
tip of the cathedral is the “corona,” or “Becket’s Crown,” the place where the
severed cap of Becket’s skull was kept in a separate reliquary. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Who was Thomas Becket? And what
circumstances caused him to be murdered for the benefit of Henry II, his king
and former friend?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That is the ultimate
Canterbury Tale.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 22.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<b><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">The Last Chapter:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>The “Holy Blissful Martyr” and How He Got
that Way<o:p></o:p></i></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Thomas Becket was born in London in
1118 and went to work for the Archbishop of Canterbury when he was
twenty-one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He subsequently studied law
and theology on the continent and when he returned to England was appointed
archdeacon of Canterbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A tall and
charismatic individual, Becket clearly stood out among the men of his age.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When Henry II was crowned in 1154, the
Archbishop recommended Becket to the young king and he was made Chancellor, in
which position he became Henry’s strong ally and friend.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When Henry tangled with the Pope over control
of church affairs in England, Becket stood strongly with the king.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In 1162 Henry thought that he could fully
gain the reigns of the church in England if he had Thomas Becket named
Archbishop of Canterbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If Becket were
both Archbishop and Chancellor, the powers of church and state would be
consolidated, and Henry would be able to stand up to the pope.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Becket did not seek the position and vainly
attempted to persuade Henry to chose another candidate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Once he was appointed, Thomas Becket
had something of a conversion experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>He became a zealous defender of the Catholic Church, resigned his
position as Chancellor, and devoted his considerable energy and talent to
fighting the king over who would control the church in England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many of the stands that Becket took were
petty; he would not agree that minor clerks in the church should stand trial in
the civil courts for crimes committed among the populace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Henry was also petty, eventually even
accusing Becket of having embezzled funds during his chancellorship.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Here were the two most powerful men in
England, not only by virtue of their offices, but by the strength of their
personalities, former confidantes, highly visible celebrities, and they began
to duke it out in public.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When Henry
ordered Becket to appear in court, not as the Archbishop of Canterbury, but in
a civil action, Becket refused, left England and headed to Rome for papal
support.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Such support was a long time
coming and then only in name.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Becket
remained in exile in France for six years while he and Henry blasted away at
each other from either side of the Channel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Henry persecuted Becket’s family; Becket excommunicated half of England
just for speaking to Henry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In 1170 the king had his oldest son,
Henry, crowned by the Archbishop of York, to secure the succession.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Becket was furious and excommunicated the
Archbishop of York and the Bishop of London for having participated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(English kings, by tradition, were always
crowned by the Archbishop of Canterbury.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Henry and Becket finally met in France in July of that year, each made
some concessions, and Becket returned to England on the first of December.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The public acclaim at his return was compared
(after his death) to that given to Christ on his entry into Jerusalem on Palm
Sunday.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Henry was still in France and fed up
with the whole business.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the presence
of several members of his court he muttered the immortal words: “Will no one
rid me of this troublesome priest?”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(Some sources say “wretched” or “low-born” rather than
“troublesome.”)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Four knights immediately
crossed the channel and made their way to Canterbury, Reginald Fitzurse, Hugh
de Moreville, William de Tracy, and Richard le Breton.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Becket was warned but would not hide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On 29 December 1170, he went from his dinner
to the church for the vespers service and was followed by the knights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It was five o’clock in the evening when
the knights rushed into the church.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There were a number of monks there for the service, and a small crowd,
having heard the commotion, followed the king’s men into the nave.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Becket resisted with force their attempts to
take him prisoner, he swore at the knights, not just as the Archbishop of
Canterbury but as their social superior.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Tracy swung at him with his sword but Edward Grim, one of the monks of
the Cathedral, deflected the blow from Becket by taking the force of it on his
arm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Becket’s scalp was grazed and began
to bleed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When he saw the blood Becket
said “Into thy hands, O Lord, I commend my spirit.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another sword blow brought Becket to his
knees and from there prostrate to the floor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Richard le Breton then delivered a blow to the back of Becket’s head so
forceful that it severed the cap of his skull, instantly killing the Archbishop
and breaking the blade of the sword on the pavement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Hugh of Horsea, a fifth knight who had
joined the party as they came into the cathedral, then put his foot upon the
neck of Becket’s corpse and put the tip of his sword into the exposed brain
matter, scattering it out onto the pavement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“Let us go, let us go,” he said as he finished, “The traitor is dead; he
will rise no more.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>After the knights clattered out of the
cathedral there must have been profound silence, though there were numbers of
witnesses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Finally Osbert, Becket’s
servant, went to his master and bound the severed piece of his head back on
with a strip of his shirt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Others began
to come out of the darkness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The floor
was soaked with brains and blood and the people in the church began to soak
them up with pieces of cloth; some are said to have dipped their fingers in the
blood and smeared it on their faces.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Becket’s body was carried to the high altar and bowls were placed
beneath it to catch his blood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They knew
he was a martyr.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They knew he would be a
saint.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The collecting of his relics began
instantly upon his death.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The blood was
put into small bottles called ampullae or phials.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It would work miracles for centuries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Becket was an arrogant man but he also
tried to be a holy one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When the monks
of Canterbury prepared his body for burial they found that under his vestments
he wore a lice-infested hair shirt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
was to meant to make him suffer constantly in a small way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He apparently took it off only to be scourged
or whipped on the back, a greater suffering to which he had submitted himself
that very morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fearing the return of
the knights, the monks quickly buried Becket in the crypt of the church—though
it was reported that there was a short delay while they waited for Becket to
rise up and bless them before lying down again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The miracles began immediately.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A blind man, who didn’t know about the
murder, came to the cathedral that day and was cured.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A paralyzed woman drank some water into which
drops of blood were dripped and she walked again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pilgrimages began.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Across the channel, Henry II was told
about the murder.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He burst into tears,
he howled, he could not leave his room for days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two years later Becket was, not surprisingly
canonized.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A year and a half after that
Henry made his pilgrimage to Canterbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>He came from France to Southampton and from there more or less followed
Belloc’s path.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He stopped at Harbledown
to dismount from his horse, and at St. Dunstan’s church he put on a sack and
walked barefoot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When he came to
Becket’s tomb he was, at his own request, whipped by each of the bishops,
abbots, and monks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The king stayed for a
day and a night at the grave, his head thrust into an opening designed so that
the coffin could be touched, and he left Canterbury with a small bottle of the
blood of his former friend.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In his wake
came pilgrims by the thousands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two of
his sons would follow his humiliating example: young Henry, whom he had
attempted to crown during his lifetime, and Richard the Lionhearted, who
stopped here on his way to the crusades, and again on his way home after having
been a hostage in Austria.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>For the next fifty years pilgrims made
a point of venerating three places in the church: the scene of the crime,
called “The Martyrdom,” where an altar had been constructed called “The Altar
of the Sword’s Point,” the high altar where Becket’s body had lain over night,
and the crypt where he was buried.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
tip of the sword that killed him was saved and exhibited as a relic; the actual
blood-stained stone on which he died was cut out of the floor and sent to
Rome.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eventually the makeshift grave was
replaced by a masonry tomb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two large
openings in each side allowed the faithful to be closer to the saint, and it
was through one of these that Henry II had thrust his head.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A fire in the cathedral the year after
Henry’s visit damaged much of the area above the tomb and when rebuilding began
it was decided to expand the Trinity Chapel above Becket’s grave and to build
there a new shrine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On a summer day in
1220, fifty years after the murder, the new shrine was dedicated and, with
great pomp and circumstance, Becket’s remains—his “relics” since he was a
saint—went into it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This “translation”
of the corpse, as they called the exhumation and movement of the body of a
saint from one place to another, would thereafter be venerated each year on
July 7th.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Since Becket had not been embalmed in
any way, all that was left to move into the new shrine were bones, and at least
some of them did not get translated into the new shrine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The head and the severed cap of the skull
were each kept in separate jeweled reliquaries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>At least some bones went to Rome and to other shrines, and for years one
could see various parts of Becket around Europe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(A tooth, for instance, was in Verona.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Two monks from Canterbury went on to
positions at other monasteries and brought relics of Becket with them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Benedict, the Abbot of Peterborough, arrived
at his new post in 1179 with two bottles of blood, clothes that had belonged to
the Archbishop, and stones from the floor where Becket fell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Roger, the Abbot of St. Augustine’s
monastery, just around the corner from the Cathedral in Canterbury, received
his new post by agreeing to their request to bring with him a portion of the
skull of the saint.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Weirdest of all,
there are at least three arms attributed to him, in Florence and Lisbon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That pub outside the wall, the “Archbishop’s
finger” took on new meaning.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Whatever bones were left to be moved
were put into an iron chest called a feretrum and placed in the shrine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are a number of good descriptions of
what the shrine looked like and it was fabulous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Henry III, whose grandfather’s life was so entwined
with Becket’s, and who was to invest so much of his own energy in improving the
shrine of Edward the Confessor at Westminster, was present for the
translation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The feretrum with the
relics was carried by the Archbishop of Canterbury, Stephen Langton (whose
grave site is reputed to be on St. Martha’s hill near Guildford).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>No other
graves were allowed into the holiest place in the cathedral, adjacent to the
shrine, until the death in 1376 of Edward, the Prince of Wales, known as “The
Black Prince.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chaucer probably knew him
since he was the son of Edward III, and the brother was John of Gaunt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a young man Edward gained a reputation for
heroism in two battles in France—at Cressy and Poitiers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When he returned from the latter battle in
1357, he stopped at Canterbury to make his offerings of thanksgiving at the
tomb of St. Thomas and then continued on to London through Harbledown where he
visited the well that is now named for him (and probably also saw the famous
shoe of Becket).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>On a later campaign
to Spain, the Black Prince contracted an illness which killed him, at the age
of forty-five, on the 8th of June 1376.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>His death was a blow to the nation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There had been every expectation that he would inherit the crown and
rule as a wise and seasoned veteran.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His
father, Edward III, was by then coming to the end of a fifty-year reign.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His son, Richard, was just a boy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His brother, Chaucer’s patron, John of Gaunt,
and his nephew (who would become Henry IV after deposing and murdering
Richard), had designs on the throne.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
battle for power that began then between the two branches of the
family—popularly known as the “War of the Roses”—would divide England for the
next century.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Edward asked
to be buried in Canterbury Cathedral, but not in so prominent a position as he
was given.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When Chaucer visited the
cathedral, the tomb of the Black Prince was there, his effigy shining gold and
his shield coat and gauntlets hanging above him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the opposite side of the shrine, Henry IV
designed a place for himself and his queen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Such was the powerful attraction of Becket that Henry IV placed himself
for eternity adjacent to the uncle whose son he had murdered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are the only members of the Royal family
interred here.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The shrine
was the focus of any pilgrim’s visit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There were four parts to it: the six-foot high base made of pink marble,
the bejeweled and gold-plated wooden ark which held the feretrum, a gold mesh
covering onto which particularly rich pilgrims could attach jewels and other
precious and valuable offerings, and a painted wooden cover which could be
lowered over the top to protect the valuables and raised again by a rope and
pulleys.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>We get our
best description of it from Erasmus, who was here in Canterbury before he made
the visit to Harbledown described earlier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(He and his friend John Colet were travelling in the opposite direction
from me.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Making the usual rounds of the
church, they stopped first at the site of the murder.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“On the altar is the point of the sword,”
wrote Erasmus, “with which the head of the most excellent prelate was cleft,
and his brain stirred, that he might be the more instantly dispatched.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sacred rust of this iron, through love of
the martyr, we religiously kissed.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The two
proceeded then down to the crypt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“There
was first exhibited the perforated skull of the martyr, the forehead is left
bare to be kissed, while the other parts are covered with silver.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There also hang in the dark the hair shirts,
the girdles and bandages with which the prelate subdued his flesh; striking
horror with their very appearance.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Back
upstairs in the choir, an enthusiastic guide unlocked the reliquarie and began
to bring out the treasures to show the polite Erasmus and his skeptical colleague.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .5in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;">It is wonderful to tell what a quantity of bones
were there brought out: skulls, jaw-bones, teeth, hands, fingers, entire arms;
on all of which we devoutly bestowed our kisses; and the exhibition seemed
likely to last for ever, if my sometime unmanageable companion had not
interrupted the zeal of the showman.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .5in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>When
an arm was brought forth which had still the bloody flesh adhering, he drew
back from kissing it, and even betrayed some weariness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The priest presently shut up his treasures.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Erasmus then
describes the shrine.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .5in; margin-top: 0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;">A wooden canopy covers the shrine, and when that is
drawn up with ropes, inestimable treasures are opened to view, the least
valuable part is gold; every part glistened, shone, and sparkled with rare and
very large jewels, some of them exceeding the size of a goose’s egg.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The cover being raised we all
worshipped.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The prior with a white wand
pointed out each jewel, telling its name in French, its value, and the name of
its donor, for the principal of them were offerings sent by sovereigns and
princes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">Among the famous stones was a diamond called the “Regall of
France,” which was given by King Louis VII.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After the destruction of the shrine, Henry VIII, who was one of the last
visitors to the shrine before it was destroyed, had this stone set into a ring
which he wore on his thumb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In 1520 when
he was still a devout Catholic, Henry made a pilgrimage to Canterbury with
Emperor Charles V.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is clear from
Erasmus, visiting just a few years earlier, though, that the pilgrimage was
already dying.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most of the relics were a
sham and they knew it, Henry simply made it all official.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>When Henry
went on his rampage to destroy the Catholic church in England, the shrine of
Becket was a particular target.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
image of his ancestor, Henry II, prostrating himself before the shrine of the
man who had betrayed him was sickening to Henry VIII.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Becket was the ultimate traitor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thomas More was nothing compared to Becket—he
had never plotted against his king.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>368
years after the death of the archbishop, Henry VIII instituted legal
proceedings against Becket and condemned him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Thereafter he was not to be venerated, called a saint, depicted in
images, or described in books.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In 1538,
at Henry’s command, the shrine was destroyed, the relics burned and scattered
in the wind.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In January 1888, archaeologists working
on a survey project in the crypt of Canterbury Cathedral discovered an old
skeleton.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This, in itself, was not a
surprise since church crypts are usually full of skeletons, but this one was
unusual for three reasons: it was buried in the place where Becket had lain for
the fifty years before being translated to the shrine, it had obviously been
buried very quickly, and it had been buried not as a corpse, but as a pile of
bones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Could Becket’s relics have
survived the destruction of the shrine?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Could the monks of Canterbury, knowing that the Royal Commissioners for
the Destruction of Shrines were on their way, have replaced Becket’s bones with
the bones of an ordinary mortal and moved the saint’s bones to a safer
spot?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Could the Commissioners have
balked at the thought of actually destroying the relics and collaborated with
the monks to hide them?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A local surgeon, W. Pugin Thornton,
laid out the bones and inspected them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A
local dentist examined the teeth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
skeleton was that of a very tall man who had died at about the age of fifty a
long, long time in the past.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So far,
much like Becket.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thornton was also a
practitioner of phrenology, a popular pseudo-science of the period, and so he
was also able to discern from the size and shape of the skull that the man who
used it had been of “large perceptive qualities, much intellect, indomitable
energy, the power of arrangement and management, but unworthy of trust.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Still like Becket, if read from the Church of
England perspective.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Thornton published a little booklet
called <i>Becket’s Bones,</i> which included photographs of the remains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is the skeleton, all laid out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is the skull with a whopping big wound
in it, as if made by a sword blade.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hmm,
rather Becket like.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And there are the
arm bones, connected to the hand bones, connected to he finger bones; and the
thigh bones connected to the shin bones, connected to the ankle bones,
connected to the foot bones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact,
there are just too many dry bones to be Becket if one believes, as I do, that
many of his parts had to have been distributed during the great age of relics
in Medieval times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How could he still
have two arms if his other three arms were in Italy and Portugal?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Okay, there was that papal bull about the
spontaneous regenerative power of relics, but that <i>was</i> just bull.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>One source contemporaneous with the
translation says that Archbishop Langton kept some of the small bones out at
that time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That would be perfectly
consistent with church practice at the time, especially since these were relics
of unquestionable authenticity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
doesn’t seem to be anything that would have prevented subsequent archbishops
from opening the shrine either.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
feretory was a locked iron box, but there must have been a key to it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With all those kings from here and there
visiting, who’s to say that they didn’t get their souvenir bone before they
exited the church.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And even though the wound in the 1888
skull was whopping, the skull was all there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It’s pretty clear from the testimony of eyewitnesses to the murder that
the cap of Becket’s skull was severed right off; and clear from the testimony
of pilgrims, including Erasmus, that at least two parts of the skull were not
in the shrine anyway, but were mounted in reliquaries for separate veneration.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>But a lot of folks wanted those bones
to be Becket’s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And if not those bones,
then maybe some others buried elsewhere in the Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are a few mysterious graves in the
church, some of unknown origin, some of dubious provenance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I picked up a book in the Cathedral gift shop
called <i>The Quest for Becket’s Bones,</i> by John Butler, and used it to
guide me to each of these sites for a good look.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the interesting contentions over the
years has been the notion that Becket’s bones <i>do</i> still exist, and that a
secret society (probably consisting of only three people) guards the
information, passing it to a new member only at the death of one of the
previous members.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Exactly one week after I arrived back
home, the London <i>Sunday Times</i> published a half-page article, complete
with color pictures, with the big-print headline: “Becket’s bones ‘kept
secretly at Canterbury for 460 years.’”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Joannie sent it to me and I read it with amazement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It seems that one of the three guys had confessed
to the secret.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bones in question
were not the ones exhumed in 1888 and debated for the next 50 years, but
others, also buried in the crypt, which had been secretly exhumed and examined
in the 1940’s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This skeleton had no
hand, which sounds more likely for a saint whose relics were scattered around,
but there are still more questions than answers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>According to Cecil Humphrey-Smith (who
acknowledged this information only upon the death of his godfather, Julian
Bickersteth, who was a canon at the cathedral), the discovery “was kept secret
because the cathedral authorities were opposed to the revival of the cult of
Becket and because two canons did not want to see Canterbury overrun by
tourists.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>According to the <i>Times,</i>
Humphrey-Smith, a Catholic, “justified his decision to speak openly about ‘the
Secret’ after so long.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>‘St. Thomas has a
part to play in restoring England to its ancient faith.’” he said.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The dean of Canterbury Cathedral responded by
saying, “The weight of evidence is that Becket’s bones are not in the
cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The weight of evidence is
that they were destroyed at the Reformation.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The weight of evidence, the burden of proof, the ancient faith, the power
of the thing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dem bones, dem bones, dem
dry bones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The comment about the tourists was an
interesting one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Would the cathedral get
more visitors if they still had the bones of Becket?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even without them there are nearly two
million visitors a year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If the bones <i>were</i>
suddenly discovered there would certainly be a leap in visitation, but it would
probably settle back down to the regular huge crowd before long.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Do we need relics at the turn of the
second millennium?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is certainly a
pervasive cult of celebrity death in England and America today which may be the
modern analog.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The death of a famous
person, or a violent incident that becomes famous through the media, creates a
pilgrimage site that is instantly covered with a mountain of flowers, messages,
stuffed animals, and images.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
individuals who put them there have no personal connection to the victim, their
connection is cultural, something shared through the larger population.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think that is very close to what the
connection was to relics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were
imbued with their power by a common agreement to accept them as special, and
when the acceptance declined so did the power.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Today the media is the church that defines our saints, but that does not
mean that the feelings of connection, the profound grief, the sense of sharing in
a larger loss, are not real.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And why do they continue to come to
Canterbury?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>John Simpson, the Dean of
the Cathedral addresses that question in the brochure every visitor gets upon
entrance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They come, he says, “to see
its magnificent architecture; because of its historical associations; because
it is one of the glories of England, of Europe, indeed of the world.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is so much a part of the collective
culture that people go to Canterbury Cathedral because they feel they should if
they are tourists; this is a tourist destination, every guidebook says so.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Joannie made a trip back to Canterbury
Cathedral with me later and was bothered by all the tourists milling around,
but I loved it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tourists have always
been part of the experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even in
Chaucer’s day, Canterbury Cathedral was getting 200,000 pilgrims annually, but
they have always detracted from the experience of their fellow tourists.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The poet T.S. Eliot hated the thought that
people went there without knowing why thy did so. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .75in 81.0pt;">
<i><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>For
wherever a saint has dwelt, wherever a martyr has given <o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .75in 81.0pt;">
<i><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>his
blood for the blood of Christ,<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .75in 81.0pt;">
<i><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There
is holy ground, and the sanctity shall not depart from it<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .75in 81.0pt;">
<i><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Though
armies trample over it, though sightseers come with<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .75in 81.0pt;">
<i><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>guide
books looking over it;<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>...<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .75in 81.0pt;">
<i><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Therefore,
O God, we thank Thee<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .75in 81.0pt;">
<i><span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Who
hast given such blessing to Canterbury.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 3.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>“Murder
in the Cathedral”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>When I had recovered myself after
sitting and weeping for a time, I went out to be among my comrades, the throng
of fellow pilgrims and tourists milling about the place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Immediately outside the little chapel in
which I sat was the site of the murder.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There is a small stone table there, made from pieces of the medieval
“Altar of the Sword’s Point,” and above it hangs a very modern sculpture of
three iron swords.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It took me several
minutes to decide if I like it or not, and in the end I decided that I do like
it, very much.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Before I began to follow the ancient
path by which pilgrims walked around the church, I visited a special exhibition
called “Canterbury and Becket: The Power to Inspire.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was good luck for me that this exhibit
coincided with my visit to Canterbury, because in it were actual Becket relics,
borrowed by the Cathedral from other institutions for a six-month period.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here was a bishop’s mitre said to have
belonged to him, now owned by Westminster Cathedral, the Catholic cathedral in
London.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here also was a tunic he had
worn, sent at the time of his death to Rome and kept ever since by the church
of Santa Maria Maggiore in a fabulous reliquarie.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another reliquarie was the centerpiece of the
show; recently purchased at auction by the Victoria and Albert Museum, it is an
enameled box or “chasse” showing scenes from Becket’s life and death.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has long been empty but must have held an
important relic at one time and is the biggest and best example of some fifty
that are known. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There was also a wooden bowl with a
crystal set into it which had come from Becket’s shoe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This shoe was the one that Erasmus had kissed
at Harbledown but that his companion, John Colet, refused to kiss having
finally had his fill of relics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When the
shoe fell apart, the crystal was remounted in this bowl and it still belongs to
St. Nicholas’ Hospital in Harbledown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This exhibit also had some chunks from the shrine, and a wonderful range
of pilgrim badges and ampullae from the shrine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(As a gift, Joannie bought me a reproduction in sterling silver of the
most popular badge, showing the mitred head of Becket.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The exhibit put me in exactly the right frame
of mind to reenter the cathedral from the cloister.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was where Becket had entered it on the
night of the murder.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I made my way down to the crypt and
when I came back up and circumambulated the nave.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are a number of very interesting
monuments in the main body of the church, my two favorites were those to the
Hales and Thornhurst families, for very different reasons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Hales monument is a wonderful work of
maritime art.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A fabulous alabaster
carving of an Elizabethan ship is in the background and a corpse, in full armor
and with its hands folded in prayer, is being lowered over the side by two
sailors; this young man died on an expedition to Spain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His father committed suicide in the River
Stour and that awful deed is depicted in a painting very beautifully worked
into the monument below the ship carving.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Before all this horrible activity, an alabaster woman kneels in
prayer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think she must have been the
wife of the suicide and the mother of the burial-at-sea, both named James
Hales.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Thomas Thornhurst and his wife both
look remarkably relaxed in the effigies on their tomb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She looks like she just fell asleep, one hand
resting lightly on her chest, the other on a book.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He lies beside her, resting up on one elbow, and
holding his coat of arms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m sure they
must often have lain in bed this way, she reading, he in full armor admiring
the family crest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The strangest part of
this monument is their three little children, a son and two daughters, each
kneeling on a cushion and holding his or her own skull.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dem bones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I had finally been through every part
of Canterbury Cathedral except that part which I had travelled so far to
see.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was with some trepidation that I
made my way up to where the shrine had been.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The stone steps have been worn by the tread of a million pilgrim feet
into hard waves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the top of the
steps, the golden shrine of Henry IV and his bride momentarily draw the eye
away from the place that is the destination of the pilgrimage, but then there
it is.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I stood and looked at the vacant
tiles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is what I had come for, this
spot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ceiling was impossibly high
above me, sunlight streamed through the stained glass giving the air a
marvelous glow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Did it matter that the
shrine was gone?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That the relics were
destroyed or so well hidden that they will never be discovered?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Had I really come for them?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was the moment of truth.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I had always thought that the power was
in <i>the thing,</i> in this case the relics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>But the absence of them was also powerful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was much more effective to look at the
vast empty space in Canterbury Cathedral that had held the shrine with Becket’s
remains, than it was to see the reproduction shrine of St. Swithun in
Winchester, or even the real shrine of Edward the Confessor at Westminster.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The power <i>was</i> there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pilgrimage <i>was</i> worthwhile.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had hoped to find a connection with the
past and in this spot, where hundreds of thousands had preceded me for eight
hundred years, I felt the power of the pilgrimage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was spiritual without being religious; it
had as much to do with the human spirit as with the spirit of God.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I reached into the empty space and touched
something larger than my own experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was wonderful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was overcome
with emotion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>My month in England had passed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I would go home the next day and resume my
“real life.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had no regrets that the
adventure was over.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The goal had been
this spot and in this spot I found resolution, even though my quest had always
been hazy and ill-defined.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I would think
for months to come about what the resolution was.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Was it that I had completed a physical
challenge that had filled me with self doubt?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>That was certainly a big part of it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>But I also felt that desire, however it is defined, that had propelled
the medieval person to escape for a time from the usual to the unusual.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If the purpose of a pilgrimage was to seek
some sort of spiritual and emotional fulfillment, then I had arrived at the
destination.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It is worth noting here, at the very
end, that the Wife of Bath and the rest of her party never stood in this spot,
never felt this resolution.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The book was
not completed and consequently neither was their pilgrimage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are forever frozen on the road just
outside Canterbury’s west gate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They got
as far as Harbledown without taking the last few necessary steps to bring them
here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt sorry for her about
that.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I no longer felt sorry for
anything else about her though—she had been a worthwhile companion, a good
foil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If Chaucer could not bring her
here, maybe I could.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Near where Becket’s shrine stood was a
rack of devotional candles and I lit one for her.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“For Alison,” I though, as the wick of the
candle grabbed the flame from the match.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“What a Dame!”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>What
that Aprille with his shoures sote<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
droghte of Marche hat perced to the rote,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And
bathed every veyne in swich licour,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Of
which vertu engendered is the flour;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Whan
Zephirus eek with his swete breeth<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Inspired
hath in every holt and heeth<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
tendre croppes, and the yonge sonne<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Hath
in the Ram his halfe course y-ronne,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And
smale fowles maken melodye,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>That
slepen al the night with open yë,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>(So
priketh hem nature in hir corages):<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Than
longen folk to goon pilgrimages<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>(And
palmers for to seken straunge strondes)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>To
ferne halwes, couthe in sondry londes;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And
specially, from every shires ende<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Of
Engelond to Caunterbury they wende,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
holy blisful martir for to seke,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 117.0pt;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>That
hem hath hopen, whan that they were seke.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 3.25in;">
<span style="color: #365f91; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 191;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><i>The
Canterbury Tales</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 22.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<br /></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">THE END<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times";"><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;"><b>Picture: Pilgrims at Canterbury, June 2017</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times";"><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;"><b><br /></b></span></span>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times";"><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></b></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6021617543698277636.post-65296194853845063962017-06-23T10:14:00.000-07:002017-06-23T10:51:23.131-07:00The Blog as Book<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; margin-right: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: auto; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; tab-stops: .5in; text-autospace: ideograph-numeric ideograph-other;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><span style="color: black; font-family: ""times new roman"","serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">June 8, 2017</span></b><span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-right: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: auto; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; tab-stops: .5in; text-autospace: ideograph-numeric ideograph-other;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 22.0pt; margin-right: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: auto; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; tab-stops: .5in; text-autospace: ideograph-numeric ideograph-other;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: ""times"","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">At this point, certain admissions must be made about the purpose
of this blog. In addition to recounting my current expedition, it is an
opportunity to publish in some form my account of the same trip twenty years
ago, which I spent the better part of two years polishing. Much of it ended up
in my novel <i>Paradise Walk,</i> and some of it has turned out to be
too detailed for readers who will want the highlights without being bogged down
by my complaints of sore feet. This still leaves me with putting out a book in
blog form, though. Most descriptions of blogs describe them as shortish
postings, but I think the format has more flexibility than that. So onward I
go!</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 22.0pt; margin-right: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: auto; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; tab-stops: .5in; text-autospace: ideograph-numeric ideograph-other;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: ""times"","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The new pilgrims,
last seen at Glastonbury, traveled on to Shaftesbury and Salisbury, visiting a
wonderful ruined castle along the way, which I have to mention as an example of
the biggest difference between my trip of twenty years ago and the present
venture. Then, I seldom let a map out of my sight, poring over the Ordnance
Survey maps for footpaths to follow. Now, we mostly navigated by using Google
maps on one of our phones. </span><span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 22.0pt; margin-right: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: auto; mso-pagination: widow-orphan; tab-stops: .5in; text-autospace: ideograph-numeric ideograph-other;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: ""times"","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The problem with
Google maps is that it instructs you when and which way to turn, but gives you
no information or context of what is beyond the screen. In this way it is
actually like an old-fashioned strip map, which led you along the way from
place to place with the orientation of the map changing constantly as you turn.
(No North up on these maps!) John Ogilby printed 100 of these in his
1675 <i>Britannia Atlas, </i>and I am attaching the one from London
to Portsmouth as an example. </span><span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="color: black; font-family: ""times"","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>On Sunday, June 4<sup>th</sup>,
we decided to look at the map for anything we might miss from Google maps, and
found “Wardour Castle” was only a bit out of our way. This was a magnificent
stop for many reasons. The castle was built in the fourteenth century as a “lightly
fortified luxury residence for comfortable living and lavish entertainment,” as
we learned from the brochure. It was blown up in the English Civil War, and in
the eighteenth century became a picturesque ruin on the grounds of the new
stately mansion. It was a lovely day, the rhododendrons were in full bloom and
we spent a few hours rambling around the castle and grounds. I attach a picture
of that too.</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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sister Kathy and I remembered our dad on the 103d anniversary of his birth. It
was his death that largely set my first pilgrimage in motion, and I include
below a description of the planning process and the important texts about
pilgrimages in the twentieth century. This passage also describes my original
visit to Winchester with my friend and companion Peg Brandon. Returning in the
present with my new companions, we found ourselves similarly moved by the site
of Jane Austen's grave, and perplexed by the fascinating medieval fraud that is
King Arthur's Round Table. The historical building in which it is located tells
the very interesting story of its creation to make a link between Arthur and
kings who followed centuries later.</span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: Times; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: Times; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span><span style="color: black; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">The last paragraph of this section introduces Anna, around whom
the second venture was built. I said then that I would like to be “one of those
eccentric great-aunties that lives in a big old rambling Victorian house and
adds a sense of goofiness to the life of this child.” I hope I have
accomplished that.</span><span style="color: black; font-family: Times; font-size: 13.5pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></b>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">Note:</span></b><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;"> I am actually retro-writing this
from Portland, OR, where I am attending the Historical Novel Writer’s
conference with my sister Sheila. At her suggestion, I’m going to start a new,
more normal blog when I finish this project!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEzvPloyTBFOJdbCW7TvvafN4vyRcuzKN81f0RcUJPiSUf7CIRP1MDf7wkElzHSmqrd1lySOcQXLR92X0K-eekbl1x6r8ebJJ54B1q3byicceWuZNoAJuk5iGjVcICfuvf7epYIHltnYY/s1600/424-2282-1-PB.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1212" data-original-width="1600" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEzvPloyTBFOJdbCW7TvvafN4vyRcuzKN81f0RcUJPiSUf7CIRP1MDf7wkElzHSmqrd1lySOcQXLR92X0K-eekbl1x6r8ebJJ54B1q3byicceWuZNoAJuk5iGjVcICfuvf7epYIHltnYY/s320/424-2282-1-PB.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 22.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<b><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">From the Original Walk:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>Hilaire
Belloc’s “Old Road”</i><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>On my forty-first birthday I was in
England attending the annual meeting of the International Congress of Maritime
Museums, a jolly bunch from around the world who had grown, over fifteen years,
to be my good friends.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The next day my
father was having the surgery which would set off a chain of medical crises
from which he would die a month later, and things he said to me in the previous
days and weeks made me think that he knew he would not recover.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It was at that time, and among those
museum friends, that I first began seriously to test the waters about
recreating a pilgrimage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the time it
was entirely about artifacts, as a way of thinking about where relics fit into
the larger picture, but I had already begun to think about the Wife of Bath as
a framework on which to hang “my sabbatical project.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>When I returned from England I made two
trips in rapid succession to Seattle to be with my father.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Arriving home finally to Massachusetts after
his funeral, I found a package in the mail containing a book.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>David Proctor, whom I knew from long
acquaintance at the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, had sent me his copy
of Hilaire Belloc’s <i>The Old Road,</i> with instructions to return it to him
when I passed his house in Rochester on my pilgrimage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was the catalyst that set me on my
way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What had begun as a curiosity about
artifacts, relics, and pilgrimages became entwined with thoughts about my
father and his death and somehow Belloc and his book became part of the fabric
of my plans <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Over the next several months I read the
book carefully, ordered the Ordnance Survey maps and began to plan my
trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It became clear to me very quickly
that I would not retrace Belloc’s path.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The notion of the Wife of Bath was strongly in my mind even before I
read Belloc, and Belloc’s path from Winchester to Canterbury not only missed
the western half of England’s isle, but almost the whole of Chaucer’s route
south from London.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nonetheless, I loved Belloc’s
discussion of roads and pilgrimages and I wanted to follow a portion of the
path described in his book.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I decided to
more or less follow Belloc from Winchester as far as the Mole River before
heading north to meet the Thames River near Hampton Court Palace and proceed by
boat from there into London.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Belloc has many interesting theories,
not all of which are convincing, but several of his points became meaningful
for me on my walk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He credits three
factors with preserving the oldest of the paths in England: “the Canterbury
pilgrimage; the establishment of a system of turnpikes in the eighteenth
century; and thirdly, and most important of all, the chalk.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Certainly the walk from Broad Chalke to
Salisbury along the ancient “Herepath” at the top of the chalk ridge made the
third point come home to me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Relics of
pre-history like that path, that follow the landscape of the chalk, and the
newer (but still ancient) “Roman Roads” that run arrow-straight up and down
hills and across streams, never seeking the easy route or the natural ford,
made up both the medieval pilgrimage route and Belloc’s eighteenth century
turnpike.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Between Winchester, the shrine
of St. Swithun, and Canterbury, the shrine of St. Thomas Becket, medieval
pilgrims followed the ancient paths.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Belloc said of those pilgrims that the “peculiar association of
antiquity and of religion” along the road “mingles the two ideas almost into
one thing.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a notion which which
he clearly associated and which I can understand very well.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>From step to step the pilgrims were compelled to take the
oldest of paths.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The same force of
antique usage and affection which, in a past beyond all record, had lent their
meaning to rocks and springs upon a public way, re-flourished; and once again,
to the great pleasure of myself who write of it now, and of all my readers who
love to see tradition destroying calculated things, the momentum of generations
overcame.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The pilgrimage saved the road.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Even
before Belloc, nineteenth-century antiquarians in England had been interested
in some sort of a “Pilgrim’s Way” between Winchester and Canterbury, and over
time it had even come to be included on the Ordnance Survey maps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most historians today think that there never
was a single path deserving the name, but I like Belloc’s concept anyway.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I
was certainly not the first person to contemplate following Belloc’s path since
the publication of his book in 1911.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(And, in fact, Belloc had himself followed the Pilgrim’s Road as
described in an even earlier book by one Mrs. Adie.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From Belloc, there was a progression of books
to be read before starting out, the most recent of which was reviewed in the <i>New
York Times</i> while I was making my preparations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In <i>The Road to Canterbury, </i>Shirley Du
Boulay describes her walk from Winchester to Canterbury with three friends in
1993.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both the purpose and the process
of Du Boulay’s pilgrimage differed from mine, but her observations were often
very insightful, and her book was also in my pack when I set out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Shirley
Du Boulay undertook her pilgrimage, in part, as part of the process of grieving
for the loss of her husband, and I could sympathize with that, as I was
mourning my father.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But she had
converted <i>to</i> Catholicism while I had converted <i>from</i> it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those things that I still found appealing
from a sentimental and romantic nature were the very things she found most
disquieting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She had, she wrote, been
“too late a convert for relationships with saints and the reverence of relics
and shrines to come naturally.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She did,
though, have a good historical sense of the pilgrimage and was drawn to it
largely by the “thought of those who had walked before.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In
the absence of Belloc, I don’t think I would have been tempted to follow
Shirley Du Boulay’s path, but her experience being very recent was helpful in
the planning stages.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She had a great
logistical advantage over me, however, a friend with a car who met her and her
two walking companions at the end of each day’s walk, took them to their
lodging, and then .deposited them the next morning at the place where they had
left off the day before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Without regular
access to a car, finding a place to stay that was within the compass of my walk
was often the greatest challenge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A
more practical guide for my pilgrimage was <i>The Pilgrims’ Way from Winchester
to Canterbury</i> by Seán Jennett.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even
though this book is now more than twenty-five years old, it is a remarkably
good guide for the walker.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jennett
traced and retraced Belloc’s paths and alternate paths, and describes options
with realistic detail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At times he
suggests that the smart walker get on a bus for short periods to avoid
travelling on busy roads and by the time I got to Winchester I was ready to
take reasonable advice.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Now in search of Belloc and his path,
Peg and I entered Winchester and found our B&B on St. Cross Street.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Having pooped out on half of the walk between
Broughton and Winchester, I was anxious to prove myself again by walking
immediately from the B&B to the cathedral, and after settling our gear we
walked down the hill to the center of town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>By chance we passed by the simple yellow-painted house where Jane Austen
died.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Though a private residence, it has
a plaque acknowledging her life and death.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As I read it, I realized that we were on the doorstep of this house 180
years to the day after Jane arrived here, already dying, probably from
Addison’s disease.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I secreted one of my
fingernails in a chink in the facade, hoping it would last for a time and link
me to her.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It was just a few steps more to one of
the passages through the wall that surrounds the cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jane must have walked these very steps when
she was able.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We crossed and went
in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The interior of Winchester Cathedral
is vast and remarkably cool.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I went
immediately to her grave.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There, at the
stone which covers the relics of the author of my favorite novel, I felt the
power of the pilgrimage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While I had
been thinking often of my father along the way, this was a moment to honor my
mother, who introduced me to Jane Austen by giving me <i>Pride and Prejudice</i>
when I was ten.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not long after reading
the book, she and I drove out to Spokane Valley, many miles from where we
lived, to see the Lawrence Olivier and Greer Garson film which was then being
shown in a revival.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>At that time I was completely uncritical
about the details that today make most filmed versions of Jane Austen hard for
me to take.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I loved Olivier as Darcy,
accepted Greer Garson as Elizabeth Bennet (though it was different watching
Elizabeth be <i>performed,</i> rather than living her life through the book),
and I was appalled that the filmmakers had the audacity to turn Lady Catherine
de Burgh into a character the diametrical opposite of the one created by Jane
Austen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a memorable occasion for me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Coming from a large family, having either
parent entirely to myself for a date was a special occasion, and the
combination of loving the book, loving the movie, and feeling a special
relationship with my mom by sharing it with her was wonderful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In subsequent years as I picked up <i>Pride
and Prejudice</i> again and again, that memory was always there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have often wondered if I would love the
book so much without that memory, but I am confident that I would.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It would have taken a dozen Nancy Drews to
make an Elizabeth Bennet in my world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>She was a character with foibles and a sense of humor that I could
relate to, the first I ever encountered in literature, and I have never met her
equal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jane Austen’s writing is such a
combination of intelligence, insightful social commentary, and fun that I have
never tired of it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She is
hilarious.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I approach my annual reading
of <i>Pride and Prejudice</i> each year with glee, like a visit with a
much-loved friend, and am sorry each and every time that I turn the final page.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Jane’s gravestone is simple and effective.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“The benevolence of her heart, the sweetness
of her temper, and the extraordinary endowments of her mind obtained the regard
of all who knew her, and the warmest love of her intimate connections.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Their grief is in proportion to their
affection, they know their loss to be irreparable.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Over the years a brass plaque and a stained
glass window have been added, to acknowledge her genius.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The stained glass window was disappointing in
every way except the choice of the main text: “In the beginning there was the
Word.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fitting for Jane Austen<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Winchester Cathedral doesn’t have the
elegant simple grandeur of Salisbury, nor the stylistic purity of Wells, but it
is crammed with interesting stuff and I liked it a great deal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first church on this site, which came to
be known as “Old Minster,” was built in 648.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In 971 the remains of St. Swithun, a local bishop who had died in 862,
were transferred into it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By all
accounts Swithun was a humble man who had requested a humble grave in the
churchyard and the violent mid-summer storm that accompanied the transfer of
his relics into the more opulent resting place was seen as a sign of his
displeasure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The notoriety gained from
the storm, which lasted for forty days, and the miracles that began to occur at
his new tomb created a powerful magnet for pilgrims.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>St.
Swithun seems best known in England today for the persistent traditional
knowledge that if it rains on St. Swithun’s day, it will rain for the next
forty days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was my impression that
all English people knew this, but in a random survey of English friends
conducted back in America I found that only three of eight could name the most
important elements, <i>viz.</i> rain and forty days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two knew it to be “weather related” folklore,
one confused it with Groundhog Day, one with Christ’s wandering in the desert,
and one had never heard of St. Swithun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Only one could actually name the date of 15 July, with other guesses
occurring in every season of the year, and none could tell me who St. Swithun
was or how he became the groundhog of England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The movement of Swithun’s relics from
one place to another defined subsequent building projects around Winchester
Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After the Norman Invasion, a
new and grander church was laid out, and in 1079 construction began so close to
Old Minster that the building of the new church and the demolition of the old
occurred almost simultaneously.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Today
the outline of Old Minster is marked in brick in the churchyard of Winchester
Cathedral.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Major additions were made in
each of the next five centuries, the most dramatic being the total
transformation of the nave between 1350 and 1410, during the period when the
Wife of Bath might have made a pilgrimage here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In Chaucer’s day it was the greatest rival to Canterbury Cathedral as a
destination for English pilgrims.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In 1476 a grand new shrine was built to
hold the relics of St. Swithun, and for sixty-two years it occupied the central
place in the town of Winchester.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In 1538
the shrine and relics were destroyed by a gang of Henry VIII’s thugs from the
Commission for the Destruction of Shrines, and the site in the cathedral stood
empty until 1962.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On 15 July (the day of
his stormy transfer), 1100 years after his death, a new commemorative shrine
was built to stand on the site.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A plaque
on it reads: “All that could perish of St. Swithun being enshrined within this
place and throughout many ages hallowed by the veneration and honoured by the
gifts of faithful pilgrims from many lands was by a later age destroyed and
none could destroy his glory.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
possible to light a candle nearby, which I did.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>While St. Swithun was the main
attraction for religious pilgrims, and Jane Austen for literary pilgrims, the
history pilgrim finds a treasure trove here as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Winchester was the capitol of the Anglo Saxon
kingdom of Wessex, and many of the Anglo Saxon kings and queens, as well as the
Danish invader Canute and his interesting wife Emma, are deposited here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Emma was queen to two kings, the first was
the Anglo Saxon Ethelred the Unready, who had taken his half-brother’s throne
by murder (the unlucky Edward the Martyr, whose grave site I had visited at
Shaftesbury Abbey).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Emma’s second
husband was the Viking Canute, whose father booted Ethelred off the throne for
a year or so in 1013.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ethelred managed
to be king again for another couple of years only to have Canute succeed him to
both the crown and his wife (Emma was, consequently, able to keep her crowns,
tiaras, etc., and still wear them to official functions).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Canute made a pilgrimage all the way to Rome,
and thereafter always wore a pilgrim’s badge of some sort.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">The
bones of Emma and Canute, along with other Anglo Saxon royalty, were placed in
mortuary chests in 1525 and now rest on top of the elaborate screen that
encloses the area beyond the choir, known as the presbytery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Emma’s son with Ethelred was Edward the
Confessor, who was, in 1043, the last English monarch crowned in Winchester
Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He moved the government to
London and built his own church, Westminster Abbey, where all subsequent
coronations have taken place, and where his grave was a major destination for
pilgrims in Medieval times, as it would be for me in about a one week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A very
satisfactory visit to the cathedral complete, my companion Peg and I tried to
remember who sang the song “Winchester Cathedral” (my vote was for Hermans
Hermits), and then attempted to sing the song, but could only remember one
chorus and half a verse.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">Winchester Cathedral,
you’re bringing me down,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">You sat and you watched as
my baby left town.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">You could’ve done
something...<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">[Something about how she
might have stayed] if you’d started ringing your bell. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>After a few frustrating stabs at that
we turned to “I’m Henry the Eighth I Am,” a more memorable entry from the
Hermit’s repertoire, and sang it through heartily two or three times until
boredom put an end to our musical tribute to Winchester.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>We set off from St. Cross through the
Water Meadows of the Itchen River into town, and proceeded up the hill to the
Great Hall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I knew that there was a
table there, said to be the Round Table of King Arthur, and seeing it was a
high priority.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As at Bath, here at
Winchester the three strands of my pilgrimage came together: it was a major
medieval pilgrimage sight for the relics of St. Swithun, it was the place where
Jane Austen had died, and as the ancient capitol of England had held a castle
where William the Conqueror had ruled and spawned the Angevin dynasty with its
deliberate associations with Arthur.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I’m not sure what I was expecting with
this Round Table, but my expectations were surpassed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Great Hall is built on the site of a
castle that has associations with both King Alfred the Great and William the
Conqueror.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Except for this hall,
everything that survived of Winchester castle to the middle of the seventeenth
century was destroyed by order of Oliver Cromwell, who did for castles what
Henry VIII did for monasteries and abbeys.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The Hall itself, like many of England’s great buildings, is mostly
covered in scaffolding, but there is a very interesting excavation of the area
immediately surrounding it and the interior is very dramatic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Round Table, hanging high up on the wall,
and stretching eighteen feet across is very impressive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The table dates to about 1300, long
after the setting of Arthur, during that period when his story was being
produced with such gusto.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It might have
been made for Edward I for some of his courtly entertainments.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He was a fan of Arthurian legend, sponsored
some anachronistic jousts and tournaments and his grandson, Edward III is said
to have founded the Order of the Garter with the Round Table Gang in mind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Henry VIII got his hands on this table many
years later and had it repainted with the names of the legendary knights around
it, a Tudor Rose in the center, and a portrait of Arthur said to look just like
Henry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At one point he actually dragged
some visiting dignitaries, including the Holy Roman Emperor, down to Winchester
to see it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His father, Henry VII, who
had a somewhat tenuous claim to the British throne, named his first son Arthur
and had him christened in Winchester, which was said by some to have been
Arthur’s capitol.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wondered again why
Henry VIII let his gang of dissoluters destroy those tombs in Glastonbury.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Round Table was a good thing to see
as we departed from Winchester.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
Arthurian connection tied a nice bow to my three subject strands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was very satisfied as I settled under my
pack and headed north with Peg.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The main
street out of Winchester is called Jewry Street, an acknowledgement of the
Jewish population that lived in Winchester until 1290 when King Edward I, that
jolly fan of all things Arthurian, summarily ordered all Jews out of
England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At one time the Jewish Quarter
was situated just inside the city wall of Winchester, and we passed through the
site of the wall’s north gate as we proceeded out of town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just beyond the wall was Hyde Abbey, built
and rebuilt over the centuries until it, like every other abbey and monastery
in England, was “dissolved” in 1538 by order of Henry VIII.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Thomas Wriothesley, who was in charge
of the abbey’s dissolution, wrote to Henry that he intended to “sweep away all
the rotten bones that be called relics; which we may not omit, lest it be
thought that we came more for the treasure than for the avoiding of the
abomination of idolatry.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Among the
bones so ruthlessly swept away were those of King Alfred the Great, and again I
was astonished at the fervor with which Henry’s gang of thugs attacked not only
Catholicism in the form of saints’ bones, but their own history in the form of
kings’ bones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The relics here included
the head of St. Valentine, given to the abbey by Queen Emma, and a silver cross
given by King Canute.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There is a wonderful and dramatic
statue of Alfred in Winchester.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He rests
his left hand on a large round shield, and holds a sword in his right, grasping
it by the blade and elevating it above the height of his head.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Alfred made Winchester his capitol in 871 and
it remained the center of British government for four centuries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He died in 899 and was first buried in the
“Old Minster.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He was a student of
Bishop Swithun, and was already interred there when the bones of his teacher,
by then St. Swithun, were moved with such stormy ceremony to a place
nearby.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>As the New Minster overtook the Old
Minster, Alfred was moved into the new building, and in 1110 his remains were
transferred to Hyde Abbey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There he lay
in majesty until Thomas Wriothesley decided to rifle through his bones to prove
that he wasn’t just in the business of looting churches for treasure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The land on which the Abbey stood gave way
over the centuries to other buildings, including a prison and a brewery, and
today can be discovered only in the small parish church of Saint
Bartholomew.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>About two hundred years ago while
working on the site, a workman uncovered a stone with the inscription: “Aelfred
Rex </span><span style="font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">DCCCLXXXI</span><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like the bones it covered, the stone was
swept away by time and unknown strangers, leaving only the story and none of
the evidence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The small guidebook which
you can purchase in St. Bartholomew’s church fairly clearly debunks the
“discovery” of Alfred’s grave as a hoax, and the Church Warden, who spoke to us
at great length, dismissed it even further.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>He did take us out back however, where a plain slab, marked only by a
cross, is said by some to be the last resting place of the mortal remains of
the great Saxon King.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Belloc, romantic
that he was, chose to believe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Alfred’s
bones,” he wrote, “seem to have been spared.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was most probably Alfred’s leaden coffin that was dug up unopened in
the building of the now vanished prison, and sold in 1788.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>fetched two pounds.”<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><b><i>The Pilgrim's Progress</i></b></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Of all the mountains I scaled between
Bath and Canterbury, there is no doubt but that the climb up to Shaftesbury was
the steepest, and that the climb to St. Martha’ was next in the line-up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t know if it was that I was in better
shape a little more than a week later, or that I was approaching the hill early
in the day, but the ascent to St. Martha’s was very pleasurable, while that to
Shaftesbury was agony.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was comfortable
and confident on this day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The little forest on the slope of St.
Martha’s hill was dry and piney.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Something about the smell reminded me of the summer camp I went to as a
girl in Spokane, Washington.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
called “Dart-lo,” a Camp Fire Girl camp on the Spokane River, and the
surrounding forest smelled just like this.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Smells are a very powerful memory device for me, even more powerful than
photographs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every now and then I get a
whiff of plastic (the last time was when I hung a new shower curtain), and the
smell takes me right back to Christmas circa 1962 and the doll I got that year;
it had the identical aroma.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So now I was
trudging up a mountainside south of Guildford, England, with a pack on my back
and a mission to find the bones of saints, and I was thinking about times in
Spokane thirty years before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I never
would have projected myself in the opposite direction.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a little girl in Spokane I would not have
thought that at the age of forty-one I would be walking across England
searching for bones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It was a hot June day and the grass on
the hilltop was baked from green to brown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The trees fall back around the little church on the hilltop, so St.
Martha’s was my whole focus as I climbed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Upon reaching the summit, however, the hill drops away so dramatically
on the other side that the church paled beside the breathtaking landscape to
the south.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I pulled out my notebook
again, I had seen something when I was reading the Tennyson that was just right
for here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is actually a little
snippet from the biography of Tennyson written by his grandson.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“The slopes of wold and valley are dotted
with copses and noble trees, amongst which lie tiny villages and square-towered
churches...”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Standing on the hilltop and breathing
in the wide vista below me I saw them all.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I love the words that English poets use to describe their countryside:
wold and copse and weald and vale.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
could see a stream that broadened into a lake where it had been dammed between
two mills.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were several villages
visible, as well as patchwork of farmland, hedges and roads and small groves of
trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It seemed that I must be standing
on the highest point of land in England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The beautiful valley that stretched
below me is called “the Vale of the Chilworth,” and in the seventeenth century
it was famous for its gunpowder mills.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
thought of Blake’s “Dark Satanic Mills” and wondered if something like this had
inspired him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Later that day I was
informed by my hostess in Surrey that Blake did not mean industrial mills but
universities!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The song took on a whole
new sinister tone at that point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
not a discourse on the loss of the countryside to industrialism but a harangue
in favor of religious inculcation against the incursions of free thought and
speech.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yikes!)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>But I am getting ahead of myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From admiring the Vale of the Chilworth I
proceeded into the little chapel of St. Martha’s, a regular stop on the pilgrim
trail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just inside the door you can buy
a map of the “Probable Course Near Guildford” of the “Pilgrims Way,
1171-1538.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A talkative guide has a
prepared spiel which he shares with all comers:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“In the corner is a statue carved by a girl of nineteen in the 1940’s which
just shows you what youth can accomplish when they put their minds to it.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There is little here that survives from
the medieval period, though it has been a spot of some importance for many
centuries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Norman church that was on
the site was destroyed by the explosion of one of those gunpowder mills just
below it in the valley, and the church that stands here now was mostly built
after the middle of the nineteenth century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Belloc was much inspired here at the site of St. Martha’s, noting that
it “has been conjectured, upon such slight evidence as archaeology possesses,
that the summit was a place of sacrifice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Certainly great rings of earth stood here before the beginning of
history.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Belloc also says that the chapel was
originally dedicated to St. Thomas Becket and that “St. Martha’s” is a
corruption of “Saint/Martyr” or something like that.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The guide in the church disagreed, making a
point that this was the only church anywhere dedicated to Martha, a very minor
saint in the pantheon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Seán Jennet says
that the dedication to St. Martha “is rare and is probably a mistake,” and goes
on to say that the name may, in fact, “result from a confusion with ‘Saint
Martyrs’, the hill of martyrs, a name coming from an old tradition that some
six hundred Christians suffered martyrdom on this hill about the year 600.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There is, at any rate, a stained-glass
window showing St. Thomas Becket, and this has been a place for pilgrims for at
least five hundred years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the middle
of the fifteenth century the Bishop of Winchester granted a forty-day
indulgence to anyone who made a pilgrimage here and contributed to the church.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6021617543698277636.post-44874384610093635702017-06-06T00:52:00.000-07:002017-06-06T00:52:10.198-07:00Camelot? Or Cam-a-little?<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<b style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">6 June
2017</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Obviously, the pace of traveling in a car—even with
scheduled walks along the way—is very different than walking the bulk of the
way across the countryside, and the biggest difference is the view beyond the
hedges. There is a limited view from the roads and though we are not
infrequently gasping with pleasure at vistas that open up before us through a
break in the hedge, some of what we drive through feels like being in either a
maze or a tunnel of trees. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>We
reached Glastonbury on Friday, with much discussion on the topic of King Arthur
and whether he was a fictional or historical character (I am firmly in the
former camp). The “Welcome to Glastonbury” sign actually identifies the place
as the “Isle of Avalon,” and I was intrigued to discover if the crystal-gazing New
Age philosophy that dominated the place when I was there in 1997 is still in evidence.
It is.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy73Wof3DhjqSy3RRciyUZsqtnKllhFSEZuANMsq12WJUGGdBzMIcoKA3K-DyWKSmsIwL_og1rMe4qMIcQ6pJBXahkBww0SXHV_0iu09DLDR0eBwu9pgila3rzHAH_58uIDEriXhosufc/s1600/Glastonbury+Store.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1093" data-original-width="1600" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy73Wof3DhjqSy3RRciyUZsqtnKllhFSEZuANMsq12WJUGGdBzMIcoKA3K-DyWKSmsIwL_og1rMe4qMIcQ6pJBXahkBww0SXHV_0iu09DLDR0eBwu9pgila3rzHAH_58uIDEriXhosufc/s320/Glastonbury+Store.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5KpSY6TNSL7Ia5evtbqMfcH7WkMKvXg8hmIwb1DKBSrN4JwmHe-HQ9Jxy5_g0qc1xGmsYdnWfWy3vPrkjp8A6Hb94zPuvL6XGqbMFf2W27ZyMbQM0KJlFujSLZIQSw82Ir5LeiBLQPms/s1600/NewAgePilgrimsChaliceWell.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1093" data-original-width="1600" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5KpSY6TNSL7Ia5evtbqMfcH7WkMKvXg8hmIwb1DKBSrN4JwmHe-HQ9Jxy5_g0qc1xGmsYdnWfWy3vPrkjp8A6Hb94zPuvL6XGqbMFf2W27ZyMbQM0KJlFujSLZIQSw82Ir5LeiBLQPms/s320/NewAgePilgrimsChaliceWell.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcWyQ9Akcq6VBB56E844TPrL6xxCaCMPIQKNqDG6wWpkyaTgJ0JPDRW-J3SwKzFqYi1_-Pl1-YTynsnglm7tgDW66pC0nADBqXPvCL8AtWzXB1JcCizYuG5stpD0XFz4mv_Vpqo-0BgZE/s1600/GlastAbbey3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1093" data-original-width="1600" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcWyQ9Akcq6VBB56E844TPrL6xxCaCMPIQKNqDG6wWpkyaTgJ0JPDRW-J3SwKzFqYi1_-Pl1-YTynsnglm7tgDW66pC0nADBqXPvCL8AtWzXB1JcCizYuG5stpD0XFz4mv_Vpqo-0BgZE/s320/GlastAbbey3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><o:p><i><b>Top: </b>Glastonbury Abbey yesterday</i></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="font-family: Times;"><span style="font-size: 18.6667px;"><i><b>Twenty Years Ago in Glastonbury: </b>A store in the city centre, New Age pilgrims at the Chalice Well, and Glastonbury Tor from the Abbey</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;">Twenty Years Ago: <i>The
Age of Aquarius</i><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Though the rain did not pour down as
hard as it had on the previous day the dawning of day three was wet enough to
dampen the spirits of the night before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>At breakfast I pondered the map again; there were no footpaths at all
that could reasonably constitute a route between Wells and Glastonbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To argue in favor of walking, it was almost
completely flat, over moors with names like Queen’s Sedge, Splotts, and
Crannel, all connected by criss-crossing canals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The major argument against walking was that
it would be entirely along the A39 which I had grown to hate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had asked yesterday at the Information
office if there were boats that travelled the canals and was treated with a
shake of the head and a look halfway between paternalistic and
patronizing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No busses ran on Sunday
morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My feet seemed better, but my
calves were knotted tight and sore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Before I called a cab, and then again
as I waited for the one I <i>did</i> call, I engaged in a serious bout of self
justification.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It had been very easy to
declare from my dining room table at home that nothing would keep me from
walking every step of the way across England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Wainwright had, after all, refused a ride during a howling gale on a
desolate mountainside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“I should have
had to be bound and gagged before I would have ridden in that car,” he
wrote.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“I was pledged to do this trip on
my feet. ... If I had climbed into that car, my whole holiday would have been
irretrievably ruined.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But after only
two days walking I knew that I was no Wainwright.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Belloc never made a declaration about
walking in his book, and only in passing acknowledged “the baker’s cart which
had taken us along many miles of road so swiftly and so well: a cart of which I
have not spoken any more than I have of the good taverns we sat in, or of the
curious people we met.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shirley du
Boulay, an English woman who followed Belloc’s pilgrim path from Winchester to
Canterbury and described the adventure in her book <i>The Road to Canterbury</i>
in 1994, did pledge to walk every step (somewhat stubbornly, she confessed),
but she and her companions were greatly assisted by a friend with a car who
picked them up at the end of each day’s walk and delivered them again the next
morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And Sean Jennett, in his guide
to <i>The Pilgrims’ Way: from Winchester to Canterbury</i> recommends the bus
for several stretches of the path in no-nonsense terms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As to the Wife of Bath?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“She rode a horse,” I reminded myself again
as I tossed my pack into the boot of the cab.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It was on to Glastonbury, where it had
been my intention from the first days of planning the pilgrimage to stay at the
George and Pilgrims Inn if I could get a room there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was an ancient place that had been
rebuilt by Abbot John Selwood in 1475 just to accommodate pilgrims.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not knowing what vagaries might influence my
schedule, I had made no reservations in advance, and it seemed serendipity to
find that not only was there a room available, but it was the Henry VIII
room.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They made no claims that Henry
VIII actually stayed in the room, though he is known to have made a pilgrimage
to Glastonbury, “but Jerry Hall stayed in that room,” the young woman at the
desk told me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The exterior was cut
stone, the interior half-timbered; the brochure and postcards featured my room
with a promise that one could “conjure up dreams of the past” there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Perfect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>For many centuries Glastonbury was the
most important pilgrimage site in England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It took Canterbury and the events of the life and death of Thomas Becket
to dislodge it from its position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Today
it has regained its preeminence and in a way that was first brought to my
attention as I looked out the window of my room on the second story and front
of the house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Out the window I could see
the small square with its market cross and a great row of old buildings, one
with a sign identifying it as “Archangel Michael’s Soul Therapy Centre,
Providing Tools for Personal and Planetary Ascension.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It was Sunday morning and not yet ten
o’clock when I arrived in Glastonbury, so I got out my reference materials and took
a stroll around town waiting for the Abbey to open.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I would be the first in line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From several vantage points I could see
Glastonbury Tor, the hill which was hugged by the town on its western flank; on
its summit sits another site for pilgrims, St. Michael’s tower.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Glastonbury Abbey is a dramatic
ruin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a persistent story here
that Joseph of Arimathea, the rich man who provided the burial cave for Jesus,
came here with the Holy Grail some thirty-five years after the crucifixion
(and, consequently, some five years before the Romans).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I even read in one local brochure that J. of
A., as a merchant trader, came here with the young Christ, his kinsman, during
those years when the gospelers are silent about the details of Jesus’
life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There was certainly a church here in
the seventh century, and in 940 St. Dunstan became the Abbot and supervised the
building of a new Abbey, which was destroyed by fire in 1184.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During the rebuilding, the monks announced that
they had discovered the graves of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere on their
grounds, and onto that great story were heaped others, including a visit by St.
Patrick.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If one is willing to suspend
historical reason one can find at Glastonbury the justification for any number
of pilgrimages.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>During the reign of Henry VIII, this
abbey, like all the monastic enclaves across Britain, was “dissolved” by his
command, the treasures shipped back to London, the lead roofs stripped, and, in
the case of Glastonbury, the influential Catholic clergy executed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As the walls deteriorated, local people
removed the stones to build houses and pave roads.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But in its first incarnation as a pilgrimage
site, Glastonbury Abbey was a sacred sight indeed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>William of Malmesbury, writing about it in
1125 said “The stone pavement, the sides of the altar, and the altar itself are
so loaded, above and below, with relics packed together that there is no path
through the church, cemetery or cemetery chapel which is free from the ashes of
the blessed.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Today the only bones one
sees are the jaw bones of a whale, forming an arch over a disused entry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a small museum attached to the gift
shop which has a few nice pilgrimage items, including some pilgrim badges and
small vials and reliquaries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>On that Sunday morning, the ruins of
Glastonbury Abbey were mutely tragic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Only the kitchen is left standing, but the “Lady Chapel” with its “Crypt
Chapel” dedicated to Joseph of Arimathea still has its walls largely intact.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the outside wall is a stone with “Jesus
Maria” carved into it, a touchstone for pilgrims for a thousand years and it
was for me as I laid my hand upon it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There is a chapel dedicated to St. Patrick, also claimed as a visitor to
Glastonbury, and a thorn tree said to be a descendent of a tree on nearby Weary
All Hill, where an exhausted Joseph of Arimathea drove his staff into the
ground and it took root.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I took a leaf
from the tree as a relic (and later bought another, dipped in copper, at the
souvenir shop.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I stood for several minutes pondering
the sad little spot where once the black marble tomb of Arthur and Guinevere
had once stood before the high altar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The grassy plot is marked off and an embarrassed looking steel-framed
sign mounted on a beige-painted metal shaft informs the tourist that there were
once bones here “thought to be” those of the Camelot duo.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In a moment of inspiration I chewed off a
fingernail and dropped it into the grass, a relic of myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>For the pilgrim who seeks the past in
the landscape there is much to ponder here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We know a lot about Arthur:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>we
know of his idealistic notions of government, of his accidental incest with his
sister which produced his dysfunctional son Mordred, of his <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">menage a trois </i>with Guinevere and
Lancelot, of the court he created with the Knights of the Round Table, and of
their quest for the Holy Grail (which, handily was right here in Glastonbury,
though they never found it).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What we
don’t know is whether he actually lived.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>If there was an Arthur, he was not the man we know from folklore and
literature.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It is clear from the sign and from the
literature available that the folks at Glastonbury Abbey are not trying to
prove the existence of a historical Arthur just because they happen to have his
grave on their premises.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the
guide books says: “In this grave were laid bones thought to be those of King
Arthur and his Queen, Guinevere.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Their
graves were discovered in the Abbey graveyard in 1191.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>King Arthur was probably a Chief who helped
to defend this part of the country against the pagan Saxons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The stories of the Round table came many
years after his death.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not quite a
declaration of belief.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Few historians today doubt that the
discovery of the bones was a medieval hoax, a way of bringing attention to the
Abbey at a time when its fortunes were at their lowest following a devastating
fire.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was an age of relics and false
relics, and the knowledge that the Norman Plantagenet Kings were looking to
link themselves to a Saxon-fighting royal lineage in Britain made Arthur a
brilliant choice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Henry II had died just
two years earlier, Richard the Lionhearted was on the throne, and his nephew
and potential heir was Arthur, Duke of Brittany.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The thirty-five year reign of Henry II
solidified Norman rule in Britain and his marriage to Eleanor of Aquitaine
brought additional territory on the continent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Henry had been raised on the tale of Arthur as penned in 1138 by
Geoffrey of Monmouth, a member of his father’s court.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If Geoffrey were writing today, his book, the
<i>Historia regum Britanniae</i> or “History of the Kings of Britain,” would be
categorized by the Library of Congress as “historical fiction.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He incorporated into his book a number of
earlier historical sources, but where the story bogged down, where it lacked
romance, or where alteration could advance political motivations, Geoffrey
filled in, and Arthur was born.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thus we
find an Arthur who defeats all comers on the Continent, and whips the Saxons,
Irish, Scots, and Picts for good measure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(He even has the bishops of the defeated Scots deliver up their relics.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In her dandy small book, <i>King Arthur
and the Knights of the Round Table, </i>Anne Berthelot describes what happened
next.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;">“When Henry II was crowned King of England in 1154
he was quick to assess the political advantage to be gained from Geoffrey’s
work. ...The Plantagenet king therefore adopted a twofold strategy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He sought, on the one hand, to turn the
legend to his own advantage by presenting himself as King Arthur’s legitimate
heir, while simultaneously ... satisfying [the Bretons] with the existence of a
real Norman king, who had their interests at heart, rather than a figure of
myth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To this end (and with political
rather than literary notions in mind) Henry commissioned an Anglo-Norman cleric
at his court by the name of Wace to turn the <i>Historia regum Britanniae</i>
into a novel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What this meant was the
translation of the Latin text into the vernacular.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>... Henry died in 1189.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shortly after his death the monks of
Glastonbury Abbey put the final touches to the revised version of the myth by
‘discovering’ the tomb of Arthur and Guinevere...<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>it guaranteed the authenticity of the legend
and turned Arthur into a figure of undeniable historical reality, at the same
time enabling those who had played such an important role in his ‘invention’—the
Plantagenets—to bask in his reflected glory.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Henry’s heirs certainly embraced their
relationship with Arthur.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His son
Richard I is said to have presented Arthur’s sword Excalibur to King Tancred at
Catania while on a crusade.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another Arthur
would have succeeded Richard as king had he not been murdered by his uncle
John, who took the throne himself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>John’s grandson, Edward I, brought a book of Arthurian Romances with him
on a crusade, sponsored “Round Table” feasts, and was the recipient of Arthur’s
crown when it was “found” in 1284.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And
when the Glastonbury bones were reinterred in a glorious black marble tomb in a
rebuilt Abbey, Edward himself carried Arthur’s coffin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His grandson Edward III is said to have been
inspired by the Knights of the Round Table in the creation of the Order of the
Garter.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I first became acquainted with Arthur
through the Disney cartoon “The Sword in the Stone,” and was inspired to read
Thomas Malory’s <i>Morte D’Arthur</i> after seeing the Monty Python movie
version of the search for the Holy Grail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As a high school student I mistakenly thought Malory’s book, which first
appeared in 1460, was the original source of the story.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A very important edition of Malory’s book
appeared in 1485, the year that the Tudors took power from the Plantagenets
with the defeat of Richard III by Henry VII.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Like his predecessors, the new King linked himself to Arthur,
christening his first son by that name in a ceremony at Winchester, a city identified
as Camelot by Malory.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even in the modern
age, Victoria and Albert found in Tennyson a writer who could do justice to the
Arthur saga, and they too gave the name to one of their numerous children.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Arthurian murals decorated the walls of the
neo-medieval castle at Balmoral, and the pre-Raphaelite brotherhood was
illustrating every facet of the story in lush romantic paintings of red-haired
Guineveres. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There are two wonderful and important
things about Wace’s <i>Roman de Brut,</i> Malory’s <i>Morte D’Arthur,</i>
Tennyson’s “Idylls of the King,” and in fact all of the Arthur stories
following Geoffrey of Monmouth’s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Though
nominally set in the fifth or sixth century, the world described is the
medieval period in which the Plantagenets lived, with chivalrous armored
knights pledging chaste love to various ladies between quests, hunts, jousts,
and revels at court.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And the stories are
so solidly grounded in the actual English landscape that I would walk where
Arthur was said to have walked on more than one occasion on my pilgrimage,
though never so strongly felt as here in Glastonbury.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The discovery of a grave made it seem
so <i>historical,</i> I guess.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bones are
evidence of a person, and there certainly have been a lot of people over the
last nine hundred years who have been willing to believe that that person was
Arthur.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My friend Joannie, for instance,
when I told her I thought the grave was a hoax, held up her hand to silence me
and said, “Don’t tell me anymore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
don’t want to know if it’s not true.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Ralph Adams Cram, a noted architectural historian of the turn of the
century, wrote a book about <i>The Ruined Abbeys of Great Britain</i> in which
all his critical disbelief was suspended when Glastonbury was reached.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Whether we hold or discard the tradition
that St. Patrick first organized the scattered hermits of Avalon into a
semblance of order, or that Arthur and Guinevere lay here in a single grave,”
he wrote, “enough and more than enough remains, against which even modern
criticism is powerless, to make this the holiest land in Great Britain.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To Cram, the founding of the Abbey by Joseph
of Arimathea is “perfectly credible and also perfectly unprovable,” and the
fact that there was a grave proved that there was an Arthur.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>“The
narrative of the finding of the bodies of Arthur and Guinevere during the
abbacy of Henry de Soliaco, in the year 1191, goes far to prove not only its
own truth, but the material fact of real existence as well: it is concise,
detailed, convincing, full of internal evidences of perfect veracity; if false,
it is a masterpiece of circumstantial evidence quite unimaginable in the
twelfth century.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Giraldus
Cambrensis, declaring himself an eye-witness, sets down the facts simply and in
the most matter-of-fact way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Between the
two mysterious pyramids beside the chapel of the Blessed Virgin, seven feet
below the surface, was found a large flat stone, in the under side of which was
set a rude leaden cross, which, on being removed, revealed on its inner and
unexposed surface the roughly fashioned inscription, ‘Hic jacet sepultus
inclitus Rex Arthurius in Insula Avalonia.’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Nine feet below this lay an huge coffin of hollowed oak, wherein were
found two cavities, the larger containing a man’s bones of enormous size, the
skull bearing ten sword wounds, the smaller the bones of a woman and a great tress
of golden hair, that on exposure to air crumbled into dust.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>‘The Abbot and Convent receiving their
Remains with great joy, translated them to the great Church... where they rest
in magnificent Manner ‘til this Day.’<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Here
facts fall and dissolve: the instant one stands in the shadow of these mighty
crags of riven masonry, all the inheritance of a thousand years comes back, and
we know that here also walked St. Joseph of Arimathea, St. Patrick, King Arthur
and his queen, and that beneath the vanished vaults once rested the Holy
Grail.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There is plenty of evidence that
medieval confidence men were just as able to perpetuate scams as their modern
counterparts, and Cram places a ridiculous amount of faith in so-called
“eyewitness” testimony.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are many
medieval narratives that begin with the claim that everything therein was
witnessed by the author, and then go on to describe sheep growing on trees,
bands of Cyclops, and sea monsters; not to mention that at the time Arthur’s
tomb was discovered relics circulating around Europe included the staff of
Moses, samples of the manna from heaven, thorns from the crown of Jesus, and
enough pieces of the true cross to build a boardwalk back to the Holy Land.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In 1607 a man named William Camden
published a sketch he made of the lead cross with the inscription </span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;">“HIC IACET SEPULTUS INCLITUS REX ARTURIUS IN INSULA
AVALONIA,</span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;">” (“Here lies
buried the renowned King Arthur in the Isle of Avalon”), but the cross itself
disappeared sometime in the next hundred years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Camden’s picture of this crucial piece of lost evidence has been the
subject of much speculation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Geoffrey
Ashe, a historian who has written some eight books on King Arthur is convinced
by the fact that the “ clumsy lettering does not suggest the style of the twelfth
century, and the Latin spelling Arturius is an archaic form which was used five
hundred years earlier.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like Cram, Ashe
does not credit that good fakers of the twelfth century might also have thought
of that.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In his book<i> The Discovery of King
Arthur, </i>Ashe makes a very compelling argument for the existence of a real
Arthur in the person of a king known in early texts as Riothamus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Filled with knowledgeable detail about the
invasions of Romans, Saxons, and Normans into Britain, and wonderfully complete
in its discussion of all of the early sources of the Arthur legend, the book
builds, layer by layer, a very convincing argument that there <i>was</i> an
actual Arthur whom we would recognize even after a millennium and a half.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the effect for me was completely
undermined by a short appendix in which Ashe attempts to link Arthur/Riothamus
to the current heartthrob of the “Tiger Beat” set, Prince William, in a string
of once and future kings that smacks of the same romantic and political
motivation that influenced Geoffrey of Monmouth, Wace, Malory, Tennyson, and
all the other writers who had pandered to a particular monarch. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>“Neither the medieval kings nor the
Tudor kings claimed to be literally descended from Arthur,” Ashe begins.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 50.0pt; margin-top: 0in; tab-stops: 49.0pt;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;">“The royal inheritance from him was collective;
English monarchs were the successors to his kingdom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yet those who promoted this view may have
missed the most glorious connection of all.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Here the usual course of events is reversed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We do not confront a legend which scholarship
refutes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We confront a possibility,
unknown to legend, which scholarship reveals—a speculation, but an alluring
one.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-right: 50.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>What follows is Ashe’s speculative
lineage:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>If</i> Arthur was Riothamus,
and <i>if</i> had a wife before Guinevere, and <i>if</i> they had children,
then it <i>might</i> have been Cerdic who, according to the<i> Anglo-Saxon
Chronicle</i> arrived from the Continent in 495.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The unknown wife, the fact that the<i> Anglo
Saxon Chronicle</i> gives Cerdic a different father, and many other details are
rationalized and explained in ways that would have made Geoffrey of Monmouth
proud.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is as if Ashe’s real motive is
to provide the link between Arthur and the Windsors that the Plantagenets and
Tudors sought; when the royal family becomes as dysfunctional as the rest of
us, elevate them through their Arthurian connections.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Ashe’s rationalization reminded me of an
article I read in a supermarket tabloid after Richard Burton died.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It claimed that “Liz Can Still Have Burton’s
Baby!” even though he was dead and she was past menopause.—If an egg could be
harvested from Elizabeth Taylor and fertilized with a sperm bank donation that
Burton might possibly have left behind, then a surrogate mother just might be
able to bring the baby to term.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>To top it off, Ashe gives credit to
Arthur’s grave at Glastonbury even though Riothamus died on the continent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What makes an otherwise good historian behave
in such a goofy manner is at the heart of the medieval pilgrimage
experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is not just a willingness
but a wish to belive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Whether it was a
piece of the true cross or a piece of English oak didn’t matter if you <i>believed</i>
it was a piece of the true cross.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>New
Age pilgrims believe with Ashe that it is Arthur’s grave, and they are only the
most recent link in a long chain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
original grave site was explored by archaeologists in 1963 and it was found
that there <i>had</i> been an ancient graveyard and that it <i>had</i> been
excavated in medieval times, leaving just enough proof for believers, while
allowing sceptics to continue as before.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>One aspect of this whole Arthur’s grave
thing continues to bother me, and that is the question of why the tomb was so
ruthlessly and completely destroyed at the time of the dissolution of the
Abbey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Henry VIII, like his father and
all those numerous predecessors going back to the Norman Invasion, had
attempted to link himself to Arthur, and the fact that his hero’s supposed
grave was completely desecrated by his own men would seem to indicate that
Henry did not have much faith in the authenticity of the remains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That he passed up the opportunity to take
advantage of the public relations potential of moving the bones to another
site, makes me wonder if anyone in the sixteenth century had much confidence in
the Arthurian relics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Later in my
journey I would find persistent stories of the removal of bones from shrines in
anticipation of the arrival of Henry’s men: the remains of Edward the Martyr at
Shaftesbury, those of King Stephen at Faversham, and of course Becket’s bones
at Canterbury (which are still the source of speculation).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In each case, local people are said to have
rescued the relics, but there is no such story at Glastonbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Neither Henry nor the locals valued the bones
enough to preserve them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Leaving Arthur’s grave behind, I began
my quest for the Holy Grail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had read
that it was in a well and in fact there was a well in the remains of the Lady
Chapel on the Abbey grounds that was associated with Joseph of Arimathea which
for a time I mistakenly believed was <i>the</i> well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another look at the local map informed me
that the Chalice Well was actually up the road a bit, on the way to Glastonbury
Tor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Abbey site has been re-consecrated
by the Church of England and continues to be a pilgrimage site.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In late June a multi-denominational
pilgrimage attracts thousands of Anglicans, Catholics and even Orthodox
Christians.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the Arthurian connection
gives it a New Age spin and the other sites in Glastonbury go even farther
toward taking the town into a cosmic realm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Glastonbury Tor is said to both an ancient Christian and a pre-historic
Celtic site, and at the Chalice Well things have slipped right over the
edge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here the interplanetary vortex
reaches the earth in a big way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>At the well itself I found four women
standing completely still, eyes closed breathing in the essence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They had that wan skinny vegetarian
look.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As the water flows downhill there
is a lion’s head fountain where you can drink the water and where a very
strange cast of characters was assembled.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>All through the grounds people lay on their backs, barefoot, eyes
closed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the fountain people were
touching, leading each other to the water, pouring it over their heads.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The mystical quality for the faithful led to
shaking, moaning,and swaying.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Several
people wore a silly smile on their face, one woman blew me a kiss.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It all reminded me of that “Star Trek”
episode when the <i>Enterprise</i> crew goes to this planet where everybody is
loving and beautiful, but there is an undercurrent of weirdness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not willing, however, to look a gift miracle
in the face, I went forward and took a sip of the water in my cupped hand (I
was not going to use the glass shared by all these people!) and then poured
some on my sore feet and knees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tomorrow
will tell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I took a small piece of one
of the old yew trees as a relic.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There were lots of opportunities in the
nearby shops to buy crystals, magic potions, Celtic jewelry, prints of
pre-Raphaelite paintings of Arthur’s women, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I picked up a leaflet from a group looking
for financial support to build a sanctuary “dedicated to the sacred in all
spiritual paths.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was to be “a new
idea for a new millennium” and would be located in Glastonbury because of the
“spiritual energies of this holy place.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; tab-stops: 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>“Glastonbury
is the outer expression of the Isle of Avalon or Place of Apples, also known as
the Western Isle of the Dead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is the
mythic home of the Nine Morgens, the Merlins, Modron, Brigit the Swan Maiden,
Mikael the Sun Lord and Gwyn ap Nudd.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Here the famed King Arthur lies sleeping with his Queen Guinevere until
the day of their return.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; tab-stops: 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Glastonbury
also lays claim to being an ancient and present day Goddess site, an early
Druidical centre... In the present Glastonbury is described as the heart chakra
of Planet Earth and as a World Sacred Site it is a place of global spiritual
significance. ... Many people are drawn to Glastonbury by the atmosphere of
mystery.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And some are driven away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It all just felt creepy to me and I reached
something of a low point upon reading this thing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Had this been what the Christian pilgrimage
meant to the pilgrims of medieval days?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As I was not looking for a meaningful encounter with Jesus and the
saints, so much as to understand the experience of perceiving the awesome power
that was transmitted to believers through their relics, I hoped to be able to
view this dispassionately, but I found that I have little patience with New Age
Pilgrims.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>They do not believe less than the
average medieval pilgrim, if anything, they seem to enter more fervently into
the experience, and that is what I found so disquieting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>People living in England in Chaucer’s time
had lived through the ravages of the Black Plague and had seen the government
shaken by the grasping for power that would lead to the War of the Roses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Catholic church, which might have
imparted some structure beyond the vagaries of patriotism or nationalism, was
split under two different Popes for half of Chaucer’s lifetime.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was little “science” to speak of, the
vast majority of the people were illiterate anyway, and their lives were
controlled by an aristocracy that, if anything like the idiotic aristocrats one
reads about in today’s tabloids, must have made life a living hell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s no wonder they sought escape in a
pilgrimage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>But what is the rationale of these
people here in Glastonbury today?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
fundamental difference between past and present pilgrims as I see it is that
the medieval religious pilgrimage was a mainstream manifestation, and never
more than a temporary escape from the hardships of life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The literature of the New Age pilgrims
implies a rejection of the real world in favor of fantasy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The majority of mystic seekers at the well
appeared to be solidly middle class.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
was not poverty that drove them here, or plague, or oppressive regime, so what
was it?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What misfortunes of love, or
failure at school, or loss of health, or dysfunctional family, or job crisis
led them to seek out the swan maidens and goddess sites and heart chakras and
mythic nobles?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It can’t be an escape
from technology, because you can visit their web sites, and computer games that
take place in medieval landscapes on distant planets are readily purchased in
Glastonbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Occasionally I ask myself if historians
are not really in the business of creating a fantasy world of the past, and my
conclusion, in all honesty, is that they are not.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Or at least that that is not <i>my</i> reason
for choosing history as a career.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I may
occasionally live in other fantasy worlds, but not day in and day out as part
of my job.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I tell my students (and I
believe) that history provides us with a way of looking at human beings and how
they respond to adversity, diversity, and how they live in and use the natural
world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While the people and events of
the past are intrinsically interesting, they are also worth studying for what
they tell us about the present.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
only because we are constantly reinterpreting the past according to those
tenets important in our own society that historians stay in business generation
after generation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We ask different
questions of the historical evidence and we get different answers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And religious folk from the Wife of Bath’s
day to the present have always embraced a certain element of fantasy as part of
their faith. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The evening I spent at Wells Cathedral
I transcribed the words to the Blake poem that became the standard Anglican
hymn “Jerusalem,” and I thought about it several times that day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It begins with a reference to Joseph of
Arimathea bringing the young Jesus to England (on a prior trip to that on which
he brought the Holy Grail).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: 1.5in; tab-stops: 2.0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: 1.5in; tab-stops: 2.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;">And did those feet in ancient times<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: 1.5in; tab-stops: 2.0in;">
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upon England’s mountain green?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;">And was the holy Lamb of God<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>On
England’s pleasant pastures seen?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The setting of the tune is powerful,
but the message struck me as such a wonderfully queaky British fantasy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I mean, by God, this Jesus chap would hardly
go to all that trouble to be born of a virgin and made flesh and if he were not
going to come to England!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because I was
raised in an Irish-Catholic family in Spokane, Washington, I never even heard
this song until it became the hymn-of-choice of “Monty Python’s Flying
Circus.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Marching across the English
countryside I decided to make it my personal anthem. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Wife of Bath would probably have made one or more pilgrimages to
Glastonbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was an easy trip from
her home near Bath, and, after Canterbury, the most important pilgrimage site
in England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here she would have seen the
grave of Arthur, not as the apologetic sign-on-a-stick that you see today, but
as a large and inspiring black marble tomb set directly before the high
altar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Her own decision to tell a tale
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;">Bring me my bow of burning gold!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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me my arrows of desire!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: 1.5in; tab-stops: 2.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;">Bring my spear! O clouds unfold!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: 1.5in; tab-stops: 2.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;">I will not cease from mental fight,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Nor
shall my sword sleep in my hand,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;">Till we have built Jerusalem<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In
England's green and pleasant land.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6021617543698277636.post-17219709516017152122017-06-04T10:41:00.002-07:002017-06-04T10:42:07.868-07:00Spirits on the Pilgrim Path<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<b><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">4 June
2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">“I woke on day two with very good spirits,” I wrote
twenty years ago, to start my journal of that part of the pilgrimage path that
we are now on. I woke this morning to news that nine people died last night and
another fifty were injured when terrorists drove a van through a crowd of
pedestrians on London Bridge and then stabbed people in the Southwark market
area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That is where we were ambling last
Tuesday, as it is the neighborhood of the Globe Theatre and the George Inn. We
walked across London Bridge, enjoying the evening and even talked about the
earlier attack on Westminster Bridge.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I like
to think that travel makes people more understanding and sensitive to other people
and cultures, and I don’t want to live my life in fear or isolation, so onward
we go on our pilgrimage, hoping for peace. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<b><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">May 1997:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>The Shoes of Despond</i><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;">I woke on day two with very good
spirits.</span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;">Unfortunately other parts were
not so good.</span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;">When I went to stand up, I
found that my feet absolutely refused to support the rest of me.</span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;">The pain in my heels and the back of my
arches was so great that I could barely walk.</span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;">
</span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;">I hobbled into the bathroom, took a hot bath, took both aspirin and
ibuprofen, and finally made it downstairs to breakfast.</span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;">I must have looked really pathetic, because
Betty, my hostess at the B&B, offered to drive me up to the top of the hill
that led into Wells, and I gratefully accepted her generosity.</span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt;">Pilgrims are dependent on the kindness of
strangers.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The ride cut my trip from six miles to
three.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It had been my plan to walk along
the A39, thinking that there might be a sidewalk along it as there had been the
day before going into Farrington Gurney, but according to Betty there was no
sidewalk and it would not be a nice walk; she dropped me at the head of a
bridle path that led down the hill into Wells.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>While this was a clearer path than any of those through the fields of
yesterday, it was still hard going.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
decline was steep and the surface was first muddy and then rocky. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was difficult anywhere along the path to
put my foot down with confidence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt
my ankles twist and turn and through the whole walk the pain of my feet was
first and foremost on my mind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It's too
bad too, because the views through the mist were really pretty.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a soft cool day and the air was filled
with the sounds of many different kinds of birds, the bleating of sheep, the
mooing of cows, and the movement of the leaves on the trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On my left was a woodsy patch, with more
bluebells, to my right a broad pasture swept down to a farm in the valley
below, and other fields rose in a mirror image on the other side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I should have been singing, instead I was
moaning, “Ow, ow, ow, ow.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With each
step, an “ow.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Step, step, “ow, ow,”
step, “ow,” step, “ow.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The day before I had noticed how the
young lambs wag their tails when nursing and the same comical picture was
presented today.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Gamboling” is the
perfect word for the sort of hoppity skip movement of the lambs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They all stared at me as I passed, and I
found myself talking to them as they moved out of the way in front of me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Good sheep, pretty lamb, how are ewe
mama?”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was reminded me of a drive
Stuart and I made several years ago around the Dingle peninsula in
Ireland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the tops of the steep
hills, the sounds down in the valley rose up to us: the barking of the dogs,
the bleating of the sheep, and the sound of the farmer calling to his dog in
Irish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here today I noticed again how
the sound travelled across the valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The sheep bleat in a whole range of tones and with differently pulsed
bleats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also thought at one point that
I heard a wolf howling across the valley, and couldn't remember if they have
wolves in England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Listening carefully I
thought it might be a dog, or even a cow mooing intensely.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clearly, I am not a country girl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>My progress was extremely slow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My route into Wells brought me along the
north side of the Cathedral just in time to see the clock chime eleven.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had walked three miles in two hours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It occurred to me that I had completed my
walk for the day and my husband back in Massachusetts wouldn’t even wake up for
another three hours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My feet were
throbbing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wanted to sit down and the
cathedral clock was a great excuse to do so.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>From the stone wall below it there is a great view of the two armoured
knights mounted above the clock face who alternated beating upon a bell eleven
times with their axes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Wonderful.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I must have spoken this aloud, because
the man standing next to me turned and asked, “Have you seen it inside?”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When I shook my head, he said, “When the
clock strikes inside there’s a jousting match.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I determined to see the battle on the clock when it chimed at noon, and
set about finding a place to stay nearby so that I could dump my pack and get
back to the cathedral.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Swan Hotel was right around the
corner from the Cathedral and centrally located.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a bit beyond my price range, but had
bathtubs, which I wasn’t sure I would find at a B&B, and, as my feet would
sorely need one by the end of the day, I splurged.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pack off, face washed, shoes changed, I
returned to Wells Cathedral.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>If the experience of Bath the day
before had somehow not met my expectations of finding a sense of the medieval
in modern England, Wells Cathedral more than made up for it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In truth, I hadn’t heard of Wells Cathedral
until I started planning my trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Though
I had been several times previously in Bath, Wells had never been on any itinerary
and it was only because it was on the road between Bath and Glastonbury that I
first began to read about it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was
pleased to learn they had a cathedral there, without investing any expectations
in it being remarkable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But it is
remarkable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The broad West face, covered
with medieval stone carvings of angels, saints, bishops, kings, knights, and
noblemen took my breath away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Though the
statues were originally painted, the color has worn off over the centuries and
it is all now a warm brown color.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Inside it was just as wonderful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dramatic crossed “scissor arches” define the
end of the nave and the near-noon light coming through the medieval stained
glass on this overcast day heightened all the lines and shadows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a memorable moment for me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I worked my way down the long nave to the
transept—where the shorter section of the church crosses the longer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There, at noon, I was ready with a small
crowd to witness the chiming of the clock.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Though the original works of the clock
are now ticking away at the Science Museum in London, the inside dial and
figures, dating from Chaucer’s time, are all still splendidly on display in
their original location, the oldest to survive anywhere in the world, though
now run by more modern machinery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
complex dials illustrate Ptolemy’s universe, with the earth in the center, and
rotating disks of minutes, days, and phases of the moon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Above the dials is a carved tower
around which four wooden horsemen ride in a joust, two in each direction, every
quarter of an hour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of them is
knocked off his horse by an opponent on every turn. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The effect is so wonderful that I returned
every fifteen minutes for the two hours that I was in the cathedral to see it
again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the hour there is an
additional mechanism, a carved figure called Jack Blandifer (though no one
knows why), who sits in a sentry box above and to the right of the clock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jack holds two hammers in his hands with
which he strikes a bell in front of him every hour, while simultaneously
kicking his heels at two bells under his chair.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Unlike at Bath, where the Abbey seems a
jumble of additions and renovations, one can see in Wells Cathedral most of the
original fabric of the building.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All the
major components were in place by the middle of the fourteenth century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The original cross shape, with its long axis
of the nave and choir (or “quire”) crossed by the transept, was built in the
twelfth and thirteenth century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It did
not take long for the octagonal chapter house to be built off the north
transept, or for the lady chapel and retro-choir to elongate the building
beyond the choir.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The chapter house is
elevated and reached by a flight of worn stone steps, the relic of many
tramping feet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Though ancient, Wells Cathedral was not
a real pilgrimage site in medieval times because it lacked famous relics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>According to the architectural historian Alec
Clifton-Taylor, the retro-choir was built specifically to house the relics of a
saint, but the local choice, Bishop de la Marchia, who died in 1302, “failed to
qualify for canonization.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So the retro-choir
remained untenanted.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I could easily
imagine the Wife of Bath visiting here anyway, as any woman who had been three
times to Jerusalem could certainly have travelled down the road to Wells from
Bath.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are three carved tomb
effigies of bishops from the thirteenth century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They had walked upon the stones on which I
stood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Had Chaucer ever stood here and
looked upon them, I wondered?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Had Jane
Austen?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The precincts of the Cathedral did
nothing to diminish my feeling that I had discovered the medieval world just
beneath the surface of modern England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Nearby was the “Vicar’s Close,” a whole street built in the fourteenth
century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the other direction was the
Bishop’s Palace, surrounded by a moat which was fed by the wells from which the
town took its name.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most surprising was the
seeming lack of tourists.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bath had been
crowded with them, especially French school children, but Wells seemed crowded
mostly with locals taking advantage of their market day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The market square was filled with vendors and
it was busy and festive, even with the light showers that fell most of the
day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At four-thirty.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the light showers became a heavy downpour and
I ducked into a covered passageway built into the wall that surrounds the
Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A plaque identified it as the
“Penniless Porch” where, in 1450, the Bishop had provided a dry place for
beggars.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Bishop always had a close
relationship with the public in Wells.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>For one thing, he controlled the water supply, which was in three wells
on his property.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bishop Beckington, who
established the porch, also had a conduit built to take fresh water out to the
citizens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In return, they agreed to
visit his tomb in the cathedral once a year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A fair exchange, I’d say, and it generated pilgrimages to his grave,
which must have been a comforting thought to him as he lay dying.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The rain was like a tropical storm,
heavy downpours with lighting and thunder.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I sat there for almost half an hour, usually with about a dozen other
people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When a bolt of lightning hit the
cathedral and set off the fire alarm, the Penniless Porch filled with all the
people sent out into the storm and we stood shoulder to shoulder, wall to
wall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A woman there told me that they
sometimes got storms like this in April, but never in May.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But then, she reflected, April had been especially
dry this year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I could not help but
think about the opening line of <i>The Canterbury Tales:</i> “When April with
its certain showers, the drought of March has pierced to its root... Then folks
long to go on pilgrimages.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>That evening I went to a remarkable
concert in Wells Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
performers were members of a local choir called “His Master’s Voices” who sing
chants appropriate to the age of the Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The audience of about 100 people sat on the fold-down seats called
misericords in the “Quire,” where the clergy, choir, and vicars sit during a
service.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The last row was carved in
stone, the front two carved in wood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Each seat has a name carved above it, most with dates in the 15th
century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Other names, with accompanying
heraldic devices, are woven into small tapestries that hang above the
seats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The stone seats are each set into
their own Gothic archway, and as the hour progressed details of their carving
began to emerge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What I had at first
thought were just ornamental finials carved at the base of the arches proved to
be tiny faces, on the left a dog-like creature and on the right a man and each
of the men’s faces was different, as if they were portraits of individuals.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>As the night came on outside and the
windows darkened there was such a wonderful quality to the feeling of the choir
space, lit by candles and small lamps, within the vast darkness of the
cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was still twilight when I
came out at about 9:15 and I sat for a time on a bench in front of the
Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I discovered that evening,
the third I spent in England, the essential pilgrim spirit I sought.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt a connection to the past through the
place and the music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was completely at
peace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did not expect to find it every
day, but I hoped I would find it again during the course of my pilgrimage.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<b><span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">Chapter Three:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>Of Relics and Pilgrimages</i><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In a way, England was a strange choice
for my pilgrimage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>On the plus side: they speak English,
they have public footpaths that make access across the countryside possible,
there are villages that are not more than a day’s walk apart, <i>and</i> I had
the model of the Wife of Bath’s pilgrimage to follow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>On the minus side: the relics are gone,
and this is a pretty big minus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My focus
was always on the <i>thing,</i> on the power of the object.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How much was the absence of them going to
impact my quest?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In order to answer this
question, it is worth describing what relics were and are, and what happened to
them in England. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Wells Cathedral was not a major
destination for pilgrims because it did not have famous relics, but that
doesn’t mean that there were no sacred bones there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No Catholic church can be consecrated without
the bones of some saint, a practice that began in the middle ages and continues
today.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Holy relics are still a topic of
serious discussion among the Catholic hierarchy, even though their role in the
modern church is somewhat downplayed today.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Relics, according to the <i>New Catholic Encyclopedia,</i> are: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; tab-stops: 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>“The
material remains of a saint or holy person after his death, as well as objects
sanctified by contact with his body. ...<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; tab-stops: 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Real
(or first-class) relics include the skin and bones, clothing, objects used for
penance, instruments of a martyr’s imprisonment or passion; while
representative relics are the objects placed in contact with the body or grave
of a saint by the piety of the faithful or by circumstance. ... The Church is
gravely concerned with the public cult of relics and distinguishes between
notable relics <i>(insignes reliquiae),</i> such as the head, hands, torso,
arms, and parts of the body that suffered torture, and all other relics.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The importance of this macabre practice
is not outlined in any passage in scripture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“It is vain to seek justification for the cult of relics in the Old
Testament,” says the <i>NCE,</i> “nor is much attention paid to relics in the
New Testament.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Apostles, say the
experts “inherited Jewish diffidence regarding relics” and would certainly have
been horrified to realize that their own corpses would begin the cultish
practice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the first miracles
associated with relics were attached to the mortal remains of the Apostles, and
gradually the people they converted began to take notice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Vatican altar was constructed over the
tomb of St. Peter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>For the first four centuries after the
crucifixion there are occasional references to miracles, but for the most part
the corpses of holy men were treated with traditional respect and buried.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the fifth century, the tombs of the saints
began to be opened and objects which had touched their bodies distributed to
the faithful to be worn in small cases suspended around the neck.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>One thing led to another and before
long powerful guys in Constantinople, Alexandria, and Antioch, were asking to
have the actual corpses of saints brought into the centers of civilization to
perform their miracles closer to home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>From there it wasn’t much of a leap to thinking that you didn’t need the
whole body—a limb or two could do the job just as well, and the skeletons of
saints began to be divided up for wider distribution.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pilgrims to Rome in the eighth and ninth
centuries were encouraged by their guidebooks to visit the catacombs and even
long-abandoned suburban cemeteries to help themselves to bones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Far from dissuading people from these
desecrations, the Popes were giving the most important pilgrims whole bodies of
important martyrs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A brisk business was
born.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>During the Crusades, the rescue of
relics from the hands of infidels became a big goal, especially the cross on
which Jesus had been crucified.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Brought
back to Europe, these would often be buried under the altar of a church, though
they were just as often placed in elaborate “reliquaries” made of gold, silver,
crystal, and precious stones, and displayed so that believers could see them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the year 787, at the Nicene Council,
bishops were prohibited from consecrating a church without relics, and that
decree is still enforced.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By the tenth
century the Mass included a salutation directed at the relics in or under the
altar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The big time for relics was in the
Middle Ages when the number available grew dramatically.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The most important ones in England when the
Wife of Bath made her pilgrimage, were the bones of Thomas Becket, the
Archbishop of Canterbury who was murdered in his own cathedral in 1170. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Miracles began almost immediately at the site,
and the blood and brains that had been spilled out on the pavement when he was
killed were collected and stored, as were all of his clothes and whatever other
personal effects could be identified.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>From this beginning, the cult of Becket relics was born.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>At least at first, these were <i>actual</i>
relics of Becket.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were
eye-witnesses to the murder and to the collecting of the remains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Before long, however, the demand exceeded the
supply and things began to be associated with Becket where no evidence
indicated they had been, including at least one spare arm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>During Chaucer’s lifetime you could see
a number of relics around England, many of them of highly questionable
authenticity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At Walsingham they venerated
milk from the breast of the Virgin Mary, at Glasgow they preserved the mouth of
St. Ninian and some of St. Martin’s sweat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Wimborne Abbey had a piece of the true cross, a sample of the seamless
robe of Jesus, some hairs from his beard, a vial of Becket’s blood, and the
hair shirt of St. Francis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pieces of the
manger in which Christ had been born were all over England, including at
Glasgow, Warwick, and Canterbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Warwick also had Abraham’s chair, the burning bush of Moses, and part of
the face of St. Stephen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thorns from the
crown of thorns were numerous, as were bits of bone, teeth, hair, and etc. from
almost any saint you can name.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>For years both Glastonbury and
Canterbury claimed to have St. Dunstan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>St. Swithun, whose shrine was a pilgrimage spot in Winchester, lost his
skull to Canterbury and an arm to Peterborough in the eleventh century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And poor John the Baptist!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When one looks at all the pieces of his head
that were exhibited in medieval times, it would seem that he actually had
several lopped off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Several good-sized
chunks still survive: the back of his head is at Constantinople, the front at
St. Sylvester’s Church in Rome, his jaws are at Genoa, and at least one tooth
is in Vienna.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The block on which he was
decapitated was brought from the Holy Land to England by Richard the
Lionhearted, and was visited by pilgrims until it was destroyed in a fire.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Before Becket’s murder, Canterbury
Cathedral was already a treasure trove of relics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Among the hundreds of holy items there were
the heads of St. Blasius, St. Fursus, and St. Austroberta, each in a head
reliquary; the arms of eleven saints; bones, dust, hair, teeth, of numerous
others; the rock on which the cross stood; the table of the last supper; the
stone from which Christ ascended into heaven; and the <i>coup de grace:</i> a
piece of the clay out of which Adam was formed by God!!!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Several items there would have been of
interest to the Wife of Bath, who was a weaver.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They had wool woven by the Virgin Mary, along with a garment she made
from it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>At some point the pope decreed that all
holy relics had the “Divine gift of self multiplication” which allowed a
certain legitimacy for some secondary items, but outright fakes were
proliferating in the medieval era and it caused concern among believers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Knights Templar, the order of
soldier-monks that protected pilgrims headed to the Holy Land, considered
“simony” or the perpetration of false relics to be a major crime.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Even after the authenticity of relics
became highly questionable, the tradition of making a pilgrimage to the places
where they were kept continued to flourish because of the “indulgences” that
were granted at important shrines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When
I was a kid, before Vatican II did away with this sort of thing, certain
prayers printed in the back of missals had amounts of time written after them,
like “Fifteen minutes,” or “Five years.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As I understood it, by saying these prayers when you were alive, you
would get the allotted time removed from your sentence in Purgatory after you
were dead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Purgatory was where you went
if you weren’t bad enough to go to Hell, but not quite good enough to go to
Heaven.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After a certain amount of time
there, you could proceed on to the pearly gates.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In medieval times, you could actually hire
somebody to say the prayers on your behalf, or make the pilgrimage for
you.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>You could buy indulgences from corrupt
churchmen for all the wrong reasons, and you could even buy them from good guys
if they were desperate enough for funds to keep their parishes working and
their buildings standing..The amount of “time off” earned at each shrine was
advertised.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Indulgences were even
printed up and distributed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(The first
commercial job completed on Guttenberg’s new printing press was a line of
indulgence forms, which had blank spaces for the faithful to fill in their name
and to get it signed.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The guys who made a living hawking
indulgences were called “Pardoners,” and one of them was on the road with the
Wife of Bath.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By Chaucer’s time the
marketing of false relics and the selling of indulgences had become common
enough that we find Chaucer’s Pardoner selling a pillow case as the Virgin
Mary’s veil, and pigs’ bones as saints’ bones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>He wears St. Veronica’s handkerchief on his cap, the symbol of a
pilgrimage to Rome, and he admits freely that he takes advantage of the
willingness of his victims to believe.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>But
of his craft, from Berwick unto Ware,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Ne
was there such another pardonere,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>For
in his mail he hadde a pillowbere<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Which
that he seyde was Oure Lady veyl:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>He
seyde he hadde a gobet of the seyl<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>That
Seint Peter hadde, whan that he wente<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Upon
the see, til Jhesu Crist hym hente.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>He
hadde a croys of latoun ful of stones,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And
in a glas he hadde pigges bones. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>But
with these relics, whenne that he fond<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>A
poore parson dwelling aupon lond,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Upon
that day he gat him more money<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Than
that the parson gat in moneths tway;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And
thus with feigned flattering and japes,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent1; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>He
made the parson, and the people, his apes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-left: .5in; tab-stops: .5in 1.5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>As the profusion of fake relics made
all relics suspect, indulgences continued to bring pilgrims, until indulgences
also became suspect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The cult of relics,
and the obvious abuse of them, was, not surprisingly, one of the things pointed
to by reformers like Martin Luther as a rationale for dumping Catholicism.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>John Calvin attacked false relics, but not
the practice of venerating the real thing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>John Hus and John Wyclif said the whole thing was idolatrous and within
a century of the Reformation that was the accepted Protestant line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The abuse of indulgences was another of the
factors regularly pointed to by reformers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In fact, the document nailed by Martin Luther to the door of the castle
church in 1517 was a condemnation of the practice. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Among Catholics, relics continued to be
venerated, but the Church hierarchy clearly needed to exercise some control
over the marketplace in which they were traded.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In 1588 the authentication of relics was centralized by the Pope, and in
1669 a special “Congregation of Indulgences and Sacred Relics” was created to
control the flow of relics and to provide standards for identifying and
authenticating them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Included in the
process of canonization is the exhumation and examination of the nominee
saint’s corpse.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Though a great number of important
relics were lost in the Reformation and in the wars of the nineteenth and
twentieth centuries, new relics are still being produced.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>According to the <i>NCE,</i> “the wars of
religion, the revolutions, and occasional uprisings in missionary territories,
occasioned many martyrdoms among both missionaries and converts, thus providing
modern relics whose authenticity cannot be questioned.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The generation of new relics is
important because even today a church cannot be sanctified without one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The most recent <i>Code of Canon Law</i>
specifies that the “ancient tradition of keeping the relics of martyrs and
other saints under a fixed altar is to be preserved.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the <i>Code</i> of 1917 this was described
as a small space or sepulchre “cut into the altar or altar stone which
contained the (usually very small) relics of saints.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The 1970 <i>Code</i> states that “the relics
intended for deposition should be of such a size that they can be recognized as
parts of human bodies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hence excessively
small relics of one or more saints must not be deposited.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Relics came under renewed attention in
the wake of Vatican II, the 1962 conference that modernized the Catholic
liturgy, with new guidelines specifically addressing relics appearing quietly
in 1994.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The local Catholic paper in
Rhode Island, <i>The Providence Visitor</i> reported in March 1996 that the
Vatican was “gently putting the brakes on the distribution of relics,” despite
the fact that Pope John Paul II had “made sure” that plenty of new saints and
martyrs were entering the pantheon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>“‘They were being passed around like
candy,’ said Msgr. Piero Marini, the papal master of liturgical
ceremonies.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Henceforward, the Vatican’s
Apostolic Sacristy, which is responsible for the official distribution of
relics, would limit them to venues of public veneration, and would attempt to
keep them out of the hands of individuals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“The new rules are not a sign that the Catholic Church is moving away
from the veneration of relics, but it is an attempt to restore order, dignity
and meaning to the practice [according to] Vatican officials.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>By the time the Vatican brought the
practice of relic distribution under control, the relics of saints were long
gone in England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In 1577 Henry VIII,
having formed his own Protestant sect and set himself at the head of it,
ordered the dissolution of Catholic religious houses and the destruction of all
relics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In injunctions written at the
time, the men who undertook the destruction, and who approached their task with
a disgusting enthusiasm, were instructed to “take away, utterly extinct, and
destroy all shrines, coverings of shrines, all tables (engraved pictures),
candlesticks, trindals and rolls of wax, pictures, paintings, and all monuments
of feigned miracles, pilgrimages, idolatry, and superstition, so that there
remains no memory of the same in walls, glass-windows, or elsewhere within
their churches and houses.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
reliquaries with precious metals or gemstones were hauled back to London, the
bones were burned.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>My destination of Canterbury had come
in for the most vigorous assault because the inhabitant of the shrine at
Canterbury Cathedral, Thomas Becket, had been the rival of his king.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Henry VIII actually had him tried
posthumously and condemned in civil court, in addition to having his remains
decimated and his shrine pulled down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>All along my route I would find the destruction, at Glastonbury,
Shaftesbury, Winchester, and Faversham, especially.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But I also found something interesting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Just because the bones of saints are
gone does not mean that English people have lost their desire to seek the
magnificent and the historical in the tangible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>At the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, the coat that Admiral
Nelson was wearing when he was shot at Trafalgar, the bullet that killed him,
and his bloody socks are all on exhibit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They are viewed with a fascinated horror by crowds of English people who
have grown up with a Nelson cult that is not all that different from the Becket
cult that flourished all those centuries earlier.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The end of the relics was the end of
the medieval pilgrimage in England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
question I asked myself several times was whether or not it made the pilgrimage
less meaningful for me, and the answer was a definite no.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am a firm believer in the power of
artifacts, but I am also confident that most of the relics venerated in England
in the Middle Ages were fakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Would it
have been meaningful to go to Glasgow to venerate the mouth of St. Ninian if I
don’t know who St. Ninian was, and I don’t believe or care if the mouth really
belonged to him or her?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And, in fact if
I’m suspicious about it even being a mouth?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #244061; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In truth, I’m too much of a skeptic on
issues of religion to suspend my disbelief and rely on faith.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It brings me back to the history
pilgrimage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The past is tangible along
my route.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ruins speak volumes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The landscape becomes the artifact, and it is
powerful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To walk where the faithful have
walked for a thousand years is a spiritual experience even if one doesn’t share
their faith.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Onward History Soldiers!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6021617543698277636.post-1867447812086612762017-06-03T08:08:00.002-07:002017-06-04T00:00:00.845-07:00The Life of Bath<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<b><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">3 June
2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">At the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford we saw several
lead and pewter badges made as souvenirs for pilgrims who traveled to the
shrine of Thomas Becket in Canterbury in the age of Chaucer and earlier. The
Museum also has one of the fabulous Limoges reliquary boxes showing the murder
of Becket and I am attaching a picture. (There is a discussion of these in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Paradise Walk!)</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>We
went to Stratford to visit the church where Shakespeare is buried, and then
went to a remarkable performance of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Julius
Caesar</i> by the Royal Shakespeare Company. The scene between Brutus and
Cassius in Act Two was one of the most powerful pieces of theatre I have ever
seen. I have read the play, but did not realize how passionate, angry, hurt,
bullying, loving, jealous and disappointed these two guys were, nor did I
consider how complex their relationship was, until I saw this scene on stage.
It was moving and riveting and I found myself weeping through most of it. It
has expanded my definition of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">drama!</i>
(The reviewer in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Guardian </i>said the
guy who played Cassius stole the show and I agree.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Bath
came next, which is the official start of our pilgrimage even though we have
been on the road for several days. The Roman Baths are now the biggest tourist
attraction in town, though they were entirely covered by the medieval town in
the age of The Wife of Bath.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also had
tea at the Pump Room, where so many Jane Austen novels are set.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(I should have put “Jane Austen Sites” in my
list of the overarching themes that make up the philosophical rationale for
this pilgrimage, and also King Arthur sites, but more about that in my next
post.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>We
came through Wells to see the fabulous cathedral and on to our lodging at “The
Boat and Anchor,” built on a canal towpath peopled by baby swans, white cows,
and my companions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>As I
write this, they are out trying to find the Leland Trail where I walked twenty
years ago, but they have already phoned to tell me that they inadvertently got
onto a different path; they are now circling around to meet me in the tea room
of the fifteenth-century George Inn in Castle Cary. I understand this
completely, as my first day of walking was filled with challenges when I undertook
it (and as I described at the time). Cell phones were new when I made my first
pilgrimage, but now they are an essential tool of the pilgrim, as is this
computer and its online connection!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
world is changed but all remains well!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn3ms8mrWXYQ3Bt-KODfwnU-AIzkfNAg5CIK2F-9yc2qm819ldCE1-UXLlLMFPp8hB0K1K5nywdrM_83LVVQ0iOfGzVLoGJ00o7G2aHJqNMTJLQO6CKOBG1ZOxNHJMEEpg66dpf2YfPIc/s1600/Becket+Badges+at+Ashmolean.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1531" data-original-width="1600" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn3ms8mrWXYQ3Bt-KODfwnU-AIzkfNAg5CIK2F-9yc2qm819ldCE1-UXLlLMFPp8hB0K1K5nywdrM_83LVVQ0iOfGzVLoGJ00o7G2aHJqNMTJLQO6CKOBG1ZOxNHJMEEpg66dpf2YfPIc/s320/Becket+Badges+at+Ashmolean.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: times; font-size: 14pt;">Becket reliquary and souvenir badges at the
Ashmolean Museum, Oxford.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7_FfRvSqoRgAFezrNlCClmUIq1OSz7rC1Zeva-qNze-eP3j3Bo6k1WOGviccAm0HMx5YKdkH5yRCrguy6-0xEmNuT7240az6hQwVr4O30CVqaRKTr6MrCMAdCLya15JwIQS6ctmoOd6A/s1600/Wells+Cathedral.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Times; font-size: 18.6667px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7_FfRvSqoRgAFezrNlCClmUIq1OSz7rC1Zeva-qNze-eP3j3Bo6k1WOGviccAm0HMx5YKdkH5yRCrguy6-0xEmNuT7240az6hQwVr4O30CVqaRKTr6MrCMAdCLya15JwIQS6ctmoOd6A/s320/Wells+Cathedral.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: times; font-size: 14pt;"> Wells Cathedral</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<b><span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;">From May 1997:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chapter One:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><i>“Bisyde Bath”</i><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 2.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>But
preacheth not, as frerés do in Lent,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 2.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>To
make us for our oldé sinnés weep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 2.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Ne
that thy talé make us not to sleep.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 2.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Tell
us some merry thing of ádventures—<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 3.5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><i>The
Canterbury Tales</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The most surprising thing about Bath
was how the mountains had grown up around it since my last visit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Mendips.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Suddenly the elevation markings on the map became meaningful, and I
realized that for several days I would be climbing and descending, climbing and
descending, as I headed toward Wells and Glastonbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was the curse of Wainwright on an
ill-prepared and physically unfit walker.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The appropriateness of Bath as a
starting place was on my mind as my pilgrimage began.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Only here and at Winchester would my three
subject strands actually cross.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here, of
course, the Wife had lived; here Jane Austen had spent many years and set
several novels; and one of these Mendips was possibly “Mount Baden” where King
Arthur fought the Saxons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From Bath,
each of these stories unrolled across the south of England.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Bath is an ancient city, it’s mineral
springs having drawn settlers since prehistoric times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Roman baths, extensively excavated in the
nineteenth century, are now a primary tourist attraction.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I consider the day I spent there not as my
first day, but rather as a sort of minus-one day, because I was still discombobulated
from jet lag and there was a sense of unreality about the whole venture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I seem to have felt the age of Jane Austen in
the architecture and especially in the Pump Room, where we had lunch, but there
seemed to be little left of the city as it would have been known to the Wife of
Bath.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even in Bath Abbey, with its
extensive renovations, it was difficult to get a sense of medieval
England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Ron and Joan planned to stay overnight
with me and leave the following morning as I began my trek and we spent the
afternoon visiting Bath Abbey and the Roman Baths.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The former was filled with scaffolding and
seemed so altered since Medieval times that it was somewhat disappointing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The baths, however, were clearly a sacred
place and a site of pilgrimage for the Romans.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Into the waters of the Aqua Sulis, the temple of Minerva, they threw
thin, rolled sheets of lead, onto which they scratched those plagues and curses
that they wished to banish from their lives.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The excavation is really impressive,
but all this was unknown both in the Wife of Bath’s time, and in Jane Austen’s
time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Uncovered in the nineteenth
century, it had been necessary to destroy the Georgian neighborhood that sat on
top of it in the process.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The adjacent
Pump Room, however, was everything I could hope for, elegant and snooty and
beautiful, and the water tasted just as bad as I imagined.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was the center of social life in Jane
Austen’s time and figures prominently in her first and last novels, <i>Northanger
Abbey </i>and <i>Persuasion.</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I was uncomfortable the whole day
though about the hills.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had hardly
noticed them before when I was in a car or travelling by train, but the
prospect of crossing them on foot the first morning out was somewhat daunting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I imagined myself stuck on a mountain peak,
hair frozen, pack heavy, Mephistos buried in snow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the first of many times, I
justified.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remembering that the Wife of
Bath actually came from “Bisyde Bath” and not from the town itself, I decided
to pick as a starting point one of the villages on the far side of the
surrounding hills, in the direction of Wells, which was my destination for day
three.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After driving around the
countryside a bit, we settled on Inglesbatch and a comfortable-looking farmhouse
B&B. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The owners of the B&B were the first
farmers I met in England and set a very high standard of intelligence,
historical knowledge, and scepticism about my walk, which most of my other
hosts would meet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was nothing the
least bit rural or provincial-seeming about them as they talked about their
seventeenth-century stone barn and the problems of fitting modern farm
machinery in it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I took advantage of the
opportunity to ask them about the footpaths between Inglesbatch and Chewton
Mendip, which I had decided on as my destination for the first day’s walk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Not a problem,” I was informed by Nora, who
even knew of another farm B&B there run by a pal of hers, whom she would
call on my behalf.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I got out the Ordinance
Survey map number 172 and went over it with Nora, who, as luck would have it is
an experienced walker.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I should mention here that I had been
studying the Ordinance Survey Landranger maps for weeks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At one-and-a-half inches to the mile, they
are filled with details, most importantly the red dotted lines that indicated
the “Public Footpaths.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Back home at my
dining room table I had traced my finger along these paths as I thought about
the route, picturing them in my mind as hard-packed dirt paths, maybe shaded by
boughs arching overhead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was not so
naive as to expect them all to be paved, or all to be shaded, but I had at
least expected them all to be paths.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
was consequently very surprised as Nora and her husband discussed and discussed
where the paths were that stretched on the map between Inglesbatch and Chewton
Mendip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Take the road,” they suggested,
“it will be much faster.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I shook my
head, explaining that I really wanted to do it on the footpaths.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The roads seemed dangerous to me—they were
generally just over one lane wide, had a high hedge on each side, enough curves
so that you could only see about three car lengths ahead, and had no shoulder
(or “verge” as the English call it) to allow you to step off the road when a
car came racing along.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No, it was
definitely the footpaths for me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The next morning Nora gave me a note
from her husband, Michael; he had taken the time to figure out the path
situation and give me the local details.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“To the end of the road,” it said, “past the piggery, turn into the
field and then cross it down to the stream to pick up the path.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If I walked along the stream I would find “a
proper bridge” and be on my way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was
somewhat sceptical about the piggery part, but felt ready to start.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My pack was comfortable, my shoes were broken
in, and it remained only to kiss Ron and Joan good-bye.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>“I hope you don’t get hit by a car,”
Joannie said with some concern.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>“I hope I don’t get gored by a bull,” I
answered.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>We pondered these two possibilities for
a brief moment, smiled heartily, and I set off down the road.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I felt really good.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The night before had been beautiful, with a
bright moon, and I had heard an owl hoot just outside my window.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The countryside had an exotic quality that
was exhilarating and the morning was cool and misty, perfect for walking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Michael’s directions led me to the end of the
road and off onto what seemed like someone’s driveway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was no indication of a footpath of any
kind and two mangy dogs came out of nowhere to bark at me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Still, I was upbeat and energetic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even the piggery failed to darken my day,
though it certainly did nothing to lighten it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The piggery road was thick with a deep, black, swiney muck.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I ventured down it wearing $200 shoes, when I
emerged at the other end my Mephistos weren’t worth two bucks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Past the piggery I saw two fields on my
left.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The near field was populated by
several horses, the more distant was filled with tall grass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a good slope downhill and at the
bottom was the stream indicated on my map.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Had it not been my very first morning out, I like to think that logic would
have prevailed and I would have skipped along through the horses, finding a
good footing on the short grass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two
minutes reflection would certainly have reminded me that I was going to be
making a left turn at the stream at the bottom of the hill to find Michael’s
promised bridge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The fact that there was
no sign of any kind indicating a public footpath, however, made me very
hesitant to go onto property that was so obviously privately owned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wild and uncultivated look of the next
field on made it seem like it must be freer of access to the public and
consequently the correct choice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The grass was knee-height, slick and
steep, with an unseen and uneven footing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>On the downhill climb I found my pack made me somewhat unsteady.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a bit of a creek meandering down
the hill with me, which was contained between two barbed-wire fences.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was only when I was almost at the bottom
of the hill that I realized the implications of this.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I would need to climb over both of them <i>and</i>
the creek to make my left turn at the stream.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I walked up and down along the fence, missing my footing once and
falling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was not an auspicious
start.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My feet were already hurting.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I found a place where I could grab onto
a small tree as I climbed over the barbed wire, took off my pack, took three
aspirin, and heaved the pack across.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m
glad that only the horses were there to see my graceless scramble across this
slough of despond.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was now at the
junction of two streams, the larger of which was obviously a watering hole for
livestock, as its banks were muddy with hoof prints.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was no bridge of any kind visible, and,
as the map seemed to indicate that the path was on the far side I decided to
ford it where the water was only a few inches deep across some smooth
stones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My Mephistos now got their
official baptism.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It didn’t take me long to discover that
I had arrived on an island.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I walked
upstream to the tip of it and saw the bridge in the distance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As I was going to have to cross one of the
forks of the stream anyway, I decided to continue on in the direction I was
going rather than backtrack, as the bridge would lead me to the path on the far
side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I forded the other side and
arrived at the base of another field.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There was only a small obstacle between me and it: a fence made out of
two wires.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As I am no fool, it took only
one touch to discover that they were electric wires.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Ordnance Survey Landranger map number 172
which I was cursing actively now proved itself most useful—I laid it over the
fence so that I could fling myself across.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There was no path.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was only thick vegetation and muddy
stream beds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I ended up forging my way
back across the stream and proceeding on to the bridge where I had my first encounter
with a stile.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stiles provide one or two
planks on either side of a fence, set up something like steps, to allow walkers
to cross over.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Walking along briskly
without a heavy pack on your back, I’m sure these stiles are minor obstacles,
but I was not walking briskly and I did have a heavy pack on my back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I cursed all stiles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was, finally, on the far side of the
bridge, something resembling a path.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
was not the broad and shady lane that I had pictured back at home as I pored
over the maps before I left.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was,
rather, the edge of a field, where someone had walked before me, leaving a
flattened bit of the agricultural product (I think it was wheat or hay) about
eight inches wide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ground was uneven
but I finally felt like I was making progress.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>To my right, the field swung up a broad
steep hill and the effect was very pretty.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I breathed deep.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Everything was
in the full fresh bloom of late spring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Intense greens with every hue from almost yellow to almost black spread
around me on all sides, from the lowest clover through the higher grasses up to
the shrubbery, hedges, and towering trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Alright, I thought, my shoes don’t hurt so much, the pack seems
comfortable, I’m on my way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>It had been my plan to stop briefly at
Priston, first at the pub and then at the church; both were closed and I
regretted the lack of a chance to sit down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Nora, on the previous afternoon had shown me pictures of the golden
rooster, the “cockerel,” which had recently been replaced on the church steeple
after spending some time in Cornwall being regilded.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a terrific thing, and as I continued
along the path I turned often to see the sun glinting off it, until finally I
had passed down enough of a slope that the cock sat on top of the hill with no
church parts visible before disappearing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I was now in an area where the path was
better marked, not only with signs and arrows on each damned stile, but with
the tread of many feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I met several
locals on their way between Timsbury and Priston. They were all women, one
wearing a woolen skirt and sensible shoes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This was a good part of the path.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The weather was cool and misty, the countryside beautiful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jane Austen once said that England looked
better through mist than sunshine and I was now reminded of two episodes from
her novels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first was Elizabeth
Bennet’s trek across the fields to visit an ailing Jane at Netherfield, and the
reception she received there; the second was a walk to the outskirts of Bath in
<i>Northanger Abbey.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Catherine Moreland, the wonderfully
goofy heroine of <i>Northanger Abbey</i> set out from Bath with her friend
Eleanor Tilney and Eleanor’s brother Henry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Their conversation was dominated by the subject matter of Gothic novels
until they reached the top of a hill outside town and began to discuss the
perspective beneath them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Here
Catherine was quite lost.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She knew
nothing of drawing—nothing of taste.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: .75in; margin-top: 0in; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The
little which she could understand, however, appeared to contradict the very few
notions she had entertained on the matter before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It seemed as if a good view were no longer to
be taken from the top of an high hill, and that a clear blue sky was no longer
proof of a fine day. ... She confessed and lamented her want of knowledge,
declared that she would give anything in the world to be able to draw; and a lecture
on the picturesque immediately followed, in which his instructions were so
clear that she soon began to see beauty in everything admired by him. ... When
they gained the top of Beechen Cliff, she voluntarily rejected the whole city
of Bath as unworthy to make part of a landscape.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Before I left home I wrote this passage
into a little notebook I carried with me, wanting to have the Austen
description of Bath from a distance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On
the downhill slope from Priston I pulled it out and read it—it made me laugh at
myself for having essentially rejected Bath Abbey the day before as <i>not</i>
representing the medieval past in the manner which I wanted it to.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>My path was now along the floor of a
valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On one side were fields covered
with sheep who set up a chorus of “baaaas” as I passed among them, on the other
side was a very pretty wood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The green
field got me singing to myself the old English ballad “The Twa Corbies,”
especially the verse with the passage “Down in yonder green field, there lies a
knight, dead ‘neath his shield.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
pictured myself, the hapless Yank, lying beneath my pack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wainwright said that he always sang as he
walked and it was the only thing I liked about him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had fortunately not yet encountered any of
the “young bullocks” which he feared (and had consequently inspired me to fear
as well), but the valley was filled with sheep.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Many of the big ewes appeared to have twin lambs, one pair moved in
unison to follow my progress.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Such a lovely valley inevitably gave
way to a steep rise at the other end, and I arrived at the top, and at
Timsbury, at about eleven o’clock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had
been on the trail for three hours, had covered about three miles and was
getting really tired.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was not
making very good time, but I figured a nice cup of tea would refresh me and I
would get my second wind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was,
however, no tea to be had in Timsbury.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
had come to England with a very strongly-held stereotype that every community
had a tea shop and an open pub and it now dawned on me for the first time that
this might not be so.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An elderly couple
saw me looking at the map and stopped to assist, soon joined by another Good
Samaritan. “You should go through the Greyfield Woods at High Littleton” the
G.S. said to me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I shook my head,
rejecting local knowledge for the second time that day, and made the trio point
out the path to Hallatrow on the map, which would save me a few miles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Timsbury had been a mining town and still has
a working-class feel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I stopped into the
church to rest a bit, drink most of my water supply, and chat with the ladies
polishing the pews and arranging flowers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Out of the church and down the lane, I
picked up the next “Public Footpath” sign and started down a very steep slope
through a field thick with buttercups.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>At the bottom of the hill I could see the requisite stile, with a small
arrow on it labeled “Limestone Link.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This path appeared on the map adjacent to a black dotted line which was
identified as a “dismtd rly.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here was
good luck I thought.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Back in Woods Hole
I had started my walking regimen on the “Shining Sea” bike path, which runs
along the dismantled line of the old Woods Hole Railway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On that path the tracks and ties were taken
up, pavement was laid down, and a great path created.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I checked the key on the map and found that a
black dotted line indicated a “path” and I pictured a clear level path
ahead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was muddy, but level and I
slogged along for half a mile or so before the “Limestone Link” and the “dismtd
rly” diverged.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a farmer there
working on his car and I asked him how to find the old rail bed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“You’re on it” he told me, pointing out the
fence posts which were made of ties, and the gates which were made of
track.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“It’s not a good path,” he
continued, “you should go along the old canal towpath.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That sounded good, it was more of the
“Limestone Link” path, and I decided to follow it until it turned the wrong
direction for me and at that point find that old tracks again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Among the mistakes I made on my first
day, one of the greatest was not reading the key of the map carefully
enough.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a difference between
the small black dots of the “dismtd rly” (which do not appear in the key), and
the longer black dashes of the “Path.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Following the small black dots I got into rougher and rougher terrain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At some points there were big slabs of old
tarmac tossed all over the path, completely blocking the way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I walked alongside it in the fields until I
could pick it up again, finally walking through deep mud to a newish barn-like
building which seemed to sit right across the path of the old tracks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I could see right through the thing; there
was a gate at either end, the one on my end was set permanently ajar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was only when I was well in that I
realized the floor was composed of manure about eighteen inches thick, covered
with about four inches of straw.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My
shoes would slide down into the muck every so often and come out with a sucking
sound and noxious smell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I couldn’t wait
to reach the other side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There, to my
horror I found that the gate was locked with a rusty bolt that would not give
way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I absolutely was not going back through
the barn, but I was not anxious to climb over the gate which was as high as my
shoulders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was not a happy
moment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I finally took off my pack,
hoisted it over the gate and followed after.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I eventually arrived at two stiles, one to my left and one to my right
which marked the crossing of a public footpath.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Good news for me except I wasn’t sure from the map which one it was of
several in the vicinity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I made my best
guess and headed to the right, hoping I was still headed more or less for
Hallatrow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was not, and it was a
costly error, the seriousness of which I did not fully comprehend for almost
another half hour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At that point I found
myself in a large field with very tall grass and no indication that there was
any public right-of-way across it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
the distance I could see the tops of trucks racing by over a hedge, so I knew
there was a road but I couldn’t see any way to get to it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Between me and it were two fields, a muddy
stream, a barbed-wire fence, and a tall thick hedge, none of which would be
easy to cross.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I decided to try the
barbed-wire and stream option, but found that the grass got taller as you
approached it because of a spreading, though largely disguised, marsh or
swamp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One bad slip on the mud convinced
me to head up the middle of the field until a landmark presented itself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In time a stile came into view with a footpath
arrow on it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I could barely hoist myself
over it, and struggled on to the road.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>My compass was in my pack and there was
no way around taking off the pack again to get it out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A review of the map with the compass led to
the uneasy realization that I had circled back to the road out of Timsbury and
that I wasn’t far from where I had turned off more than an hour before to chase
the grail of the former railroad tracks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I had missed Hallatrow, so now the best option seemed to be to go into
High Littleton, where the map indicated there was a pub.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At one o’clock, after five hours on the road,
I arrived at the Stars Pub.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I now debated the option of finding a
bus into Chewton Mendip and looked again at the map.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I drank two pitchers of water, a glass of
cider, ate some ham and cheese, changed my wet shoes and socks and decided to
bite the bullet and go on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wasn’t far
now from Greyfield Woods and thought that for once in the day I ought to take
the advice of a local informant and make my way through there. As promised, the
floor of the woods was carpeted in blue bells, a breathtaking sight. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Along the path I met a woman with four
dogs who asked my plans and suggested that I take a different path through the
woods than the one I intended as I would then pass by a waterfall, but her
suggestion would bring me into Hallatrow and I had decided to exit the forest
on a path that would bring me up onto an abandoned railroad embankment, and
eventually drop me at a pub midway between Hallatrow and White Cross.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She warned me that some of the paths were no
longer public access but didn’t know the details.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>My path of choice was one of the ones
which was clearly of questionable access.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The stile that would lead me out of the forest and into a field was
barricaded with tree limbs and had an electric wire stretched across the access
point about a yard beyond the stile.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Had
I not earlier perfected the technology of crossing these wires I probably would
have turned around, but that would have meant retracing an hour’s labor, so I
moved the branches, used my map to cross the wire and headed across the
field.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the other end I had to cross
another electric wire which I did without a problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The embankment was ahead of me, but once
again there was no access to it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not
only a fence and a stream, but a thick, steep bank of nettles kept it frustratingly
out of reach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was at a very low
point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>My best option seemed to be to head for
a pub which, according to the map, was about a mile along on the road to
Hallowtrow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It became my new shining
grail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I arrived there at 3:10 to find
that they closed between three and five.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“Just about a half mile on, you'll find a place that’s open,” I was
informed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No plea, no pathetic look, no
offer of money would induce the couple sweeping up to part with one glass of
cider or cup of tea, and their sense of distance was as stingy as
themselves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was over a mile to the
“Little Chef” at Farrington Gurney where I could finally take off my pack, sit
down, and ponder my pilgrimage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What the
hell, exactly, was I doing?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>At six o’clock I was still sitting, sucking
up lukewarm tea and asking myself the big questions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was now only a few miles from my goal of
the day, Chewton Mendip, but I just couldn’t face another step.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My father-in-law had given me a little device
that you can run across a map to measure distance and I ran it over each
portion of my trip since Inglesbatch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
ten hours I had come only nine miles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My
feet were really hurting and I began to wonder how committed I was to walking
every step of the path across England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“What would Alison the Wife of Bath have done?” I asked myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Oh yeah, she rode a horse.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I stared at the map a bit longer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chewton Mendip was only a few miles on, but
the way there had elevation lines indicating some pretty steep climbs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just outside the window of the Little Chef
was a phone booth, there was a local paper on the table, and in two shakes of a
lamb’s tale I had the number of a taxi company in my hand.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The walk which would have taken me two or
more hours to walk, took ten minutes to drive, and by seven o’clock, instead of
the purgatory of the Mendips, I was enjoying the heaven of a hot bath.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Though my hostess offered to drive me a few
miles to the local pub for dinner, I found that I didn’t really want anything
but a comfortable bed, and I retired early with the next day’s map spread over
me like a blanket.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>If my pace did not improve, this would
be a very long trip indeed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The terrain
was rougher than I had anticipated, the paths less defined, and consequently
required more time than I had budgeted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It had always been my expectation that I would get better at it over
time, and that now became not only desirable but necessary.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Despite having resorted to a cab for
the last phase, I was not unhappy about my first day’s accomplishment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Before I fell asleep I walked through the
whole day again in my mind, from the farm at Inglesbatch, through the piggery,
over the barbed-wire and electric fences, up and down the Mendips, and through
Greyfield Woods with its carpet of bluebells.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I had seen a hawk, a robin, sparrows, crows, starlings, nuthatches,
magpies, and a big blue bird with loud flapping wings that rose from the hedges
(I thought it must be a grouse, though I had never seen one, and only later
learned it was a pigeon!).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also saw
squirrels, rabbits, cows, dogs, sheep in profusion, and one golden
cockerel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had heard an owl, and birds
that sounded like the jingle of a tambourine, and the honk of an old car
horn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just outside my window, the
farming family that ran the B&B had turned an old swimming pool into a pond
for large and colorful carp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was
completely exhausted.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>As I thought about Wells the next day,
where I knew I would find a cathedral and other medieval buildings, it occurred
to me how much of the English countryside would still seem familiar to the Wife
of Bath, and especially to Jane Austen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There is a quality to it the countryside that, while not quite
“timeless,” seems continuous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Despite
the fact that most of the population in England lives in cities, it is still
the rural districts that define England both to its own population and to the
romantic outsider, like myself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
small farms, stone walls, hedges, and livestock, the ancient barns set in their
lush green rolling landscape, the small farmhouses that have been continuously
occupied for centuries, all contribute to the feeling that the place and its
past are inextricably woven together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(It wasn’t far from here at the Cheddar caves that they found a
nine-thousand-year-old skeleton and then, through DNA testing, found his
descendant, still living in the neighborhood!)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It is easy to project oneself back in time in the English countryside,
even with the hedges racing past the windows of a cab.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I promised myself that I would always
listen to the advice of local people, though I would never again need it as
much as I did that first day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Had I
undertaken this as a religious pilgrimage I would probably have learned much
sooner than I did of the advice to pilgrims written in the Biblical passage, Jeremiah
6:16.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: .5in 1.0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Stand
at the crossroads and look,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Ask
for the ancient paths,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And
where the good way is,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 18.0pt; tab-stops: 1.5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>And
walk in it,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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you will find rest for your souls.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6021617543698277636.post-83434742430806321672017-06-01T03:19:00.002-07:002017-06-01T03:19:38.740-07:00England!
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<b><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">1 June 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">For two days, we four pilgrims marched around
London, preparing to begin our long trek to Canterbury. On the 29<sup>th</sup>
(Anna’s birthday) we visited Westminster Abbey where Geoffrey Chaucer’s bones
lie among the skeletons of poets, politicians and princes; more than 3000
people are buried there, including Handel, Newton and Darwin. We were there for
several hours and stayed behind at closing to attend the evening vespers
service so we could hear the choir. At the Red Lion, a classic English pub, we had
meat pies for dinner followed by a very hearty rendition of “Happy Birthday to
You,” with impressive harmonies from the congregation of diners.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"> We
spent the next morning at the Victoria and Albert Museum, an important place in
the history of museums, with roots in the Crystal Palace Exhibition of 1851,
and then went to see “Twelfth Night” at the Globe Theatre. Along the way we
visited “The George,” the last of the old medieval coaching inns. Next door was
the site of the Tabard Inn, where Chaucer’s pilgrims gathered in the last
decade of the 14<sup>th</sup> century.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"> At
Oxford yesterday we went to the Pitt-Rivers Museum and will visit the Ashmolean
today, two more keys to understanding the history of museums. We attended
another vespers service, this time at the church of Christ College in Oxford,
and we will head to Stratford this afternoon to see a production of “Julius
Caesar” at the Royal Shakespeare Company. Whew!
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"> We
intend to attend as many choral performances as we can, as many Shakespeare
plays as are being offered on our route, all Medieval Cathedrals that come
within our ken, and walk along the ancient paths.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"> As a
nod to my pilgrimage of 20 years ago, I’m including here something I wrote then
about the power of objects. My thoughts on the relationship between people and
things was just being developed then, and it continues to resonate with me as I
ponder and write about the history of museums.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivNGhHTk-7GNJ0hMfwvZSduaS_xcd1pWL2eEN85wTlPmbV8rmoQ-go4aJlrAIT2tqJXPAFHX28mX_1Ev_N7ymFZcOl3zDGbs4NND_FiNR3EtKhM2FVnN-88motOROl4gJiJYrEuhp4724/s1600/V%2526A+Cast+Room.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivNGhHTk-7GNJ0hMfwvZSduaS_xcd1pWL2eEN85wTlPmbV8rmoQ-go4aJlrAIT2tqJXPAFHX28mX_1Ev_N7ymFZcOl3zDGbs4NND_FiNR3EtKhM2FVnN-88motOROl4gJiJYrEuhp4724/s320/V%2526A+Cast+Room.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><b><i>Top:</i></b> My
companions on the pilgrimage.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><b><i>Bottom:</i></b> The gallery of casts at the V&A. Everything here
is a reproduction, including the statue of David, which had to be censored with
a plaster leaf during Victoria’s day. (There were hooks embedded in David’s
hips on which the leaf could hang.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 20.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<b><span style="color: #215868; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;">From May 1997:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>The Power of the Thing</i></span></b><span style="color: #215868; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I believe that objects have a power almost
magical.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is not apparent in every
object, though each holds the potential.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The keys to the power are memory, imagination, and faith.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>On my desk is a heavy glass prism.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At one time it was probably clear, but long
ago it took on a purple cast. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A hundred
years ago or more it was set into the deck of a ship.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has a flat surface that lay flush with the
planking of the deck, and a six-sided point that reflected light down into the
ship’s cabin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was given to me by an
old man in Maine who found it on a beach when he was a boy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At that time it was still embedded in a piece
of wood, the last relic of an unidentified shipwreck.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>This object is like a time
capsule.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It doesn’t matter to me that I
know only the very last links in the specific chain of events that brought it
from a glass factory to a shipyard, out to sea, crashing violently back to
shore, and eventually onto my desk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
represents more than itself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Holding it
in my hand, I can see schooners on the coast of Maine, cargos of lumber and
rock and ice, great storms, ships lost, men afraid, women waiting with
worry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have read many accounts of the
seafaring past—shipboard journals, business papers, historical analyses—but
this thing has a power that makes it tangible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I touch the past when I hold it in my hands.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I have powerful talismans of my
personal history as well; some are mementos of family and friends, many more
are souvenirs of travel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Next to the
prism on my desk are three rocks, one from the White Cliffs of Dover, one from
the Brazos river in Texas, and one collected on my walk across England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also have shells from the Irish beach at
Inch, coral from Bequia in the Caribbean and from Taiji in Japan, a whale
barnacle from the Oregon Coast, and a sand dollar from a beach in my home state
of Washington.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Each encapsulates the
memory of when and where it was collected.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>For me, these are more powerful than photographs.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>If I gave my collection of rocks and
shells to someone else, they might have meaning as geological specimens, or as
mementos of me, but the power that my memory gives them would be gone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If the prism went to someone else without the
knowledge of the shipwreck, it would merely be a paperweight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I am intrigued by the attachment we
have to artifacts, enough so that I have worked in museums and as a history
teacher for almost twenty years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My own
area of research has been into the ethnological artifacts collected by American
sailors in the Pacific Ocean in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I began with an interest in the very
different ways that two groups of people could look at the same artifact.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The native producer or user saw the club,
paddle, mask, or spoon as familiar and functional; the foreign collector saw it
not only as exotic, but used it to represent <i>his</i> personal
adventure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was the difference between
a group’s common perception and an individual’s personal memory.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If the collector died without telling his
story, then the artifact could only be interpreted as part of the culture that
made it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And that is what happened to
the vast majority of souvenirs brought back by American sailors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I
wanted to recover their stories, if possible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Concentrating for over ten years on the collecting motives of a group
made up almost entirely of teenage boys has its limitations, however.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What was the cultural foundation of their
desire to collect?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How had they come to
find the power of the artifact?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And what
is the connection between personal memory and group memory?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I found my thoughts on the power of objects
going back further in time and increasingly into the roles that faith and
imagination, in addition to memory, play in determining their importance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>For Western Europeans, the concept that
objects have power seems to have originated in the cult of religious
relics.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Morbid and gothic though it
sounds, small bits of human corpses were so powerful in the Middle Ages that
they drew people halfway around the world at a time when travel was difficult,
tedious, and dangerous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I decided to
further explore this interesting aspect of the past and consequently found
myself one day in the middle of a field, in the middle of England, on my way—by
foot—to Canterbury.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 24.0pt; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: Times; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-themecolor: accent5; mso-themeshade: 128;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I’m not a religious person, but I was
intrigued by the idea of making a pilgrimage of the sort that was popular in
medieval times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bones of saints,
pieces of the true cross, holy roods, weeping statues, bloody towels, footsteps
in stone, thorns and water, all called to the faithful to come and worship.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At pilgrimage sites throughout Europe and the
Middle East, holy objects were on exhibit so that common people might
experience a physical connection to heaven.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>At some shrines, the bones could be fondled by the faithful; some tombs
were built so that pilgrims could climb inside or under them for an ever closer
physical proximity to the spiritual world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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the miles and years to Palestine and the crucifixion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The magic happened.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6021617543698277636.post-31626057176902607942017-05-27T07:14:00.001-07:002017-05-28T05:06:11.057-07:00The Pilgrimage Revisited<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<b><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">27 May 2017<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<b><span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Pre-Amble<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Twenty years ago today I was in the middle of
a long walk across England, following the pilgrimage path of
the Wife of Bath character from Geoffrey Chaucer’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Canterbury Tales.</i> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On 29 May 1997, while I was at Dorking, I learned that Anna Apostolidis was born in Washington, D.C. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My great-niece, Anna was the first person born
into the new generation of my family. I sent her a postcard and promised to
bring her to England on her twentieth birthday. The time has arrived! Off we go
tomorrow to recreate the pilgrimage, with some assistance from a car and two
other companions, my sister Kathy and my niece Jeannie (Anna’s grandmother and mother).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I kept a journal on my first pilgrimage, which
I edited and submitted to a publisher. It didn’t get me a book deal, but
through that effort I met Kit Ward, who became my agent. She suggested that I
turn my non-fiction travel narrative into a novel and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Paradise Walk</i> was born. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For the purpose of this blog, I’m going to
present my 20-year-old narrative, along with some current comments and
pictures. Off we go! (I'll put my original text in blue.)</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisTEj3wVrwWFq3g0YF1O7CKMuYXBzQcN1kOH5vWafMqKX8EHVC-k77zKO2W1AzaREZYjCz56HS9sofFsIDW0kNTKo0_Ds4MYkmaSHLtZ-W6al5xJ_2A7AUYqXWma8TXMwPvlMHU02-SR4/s1600/NearChawton.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1093" data-original-width="1600" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisTEj3wVrwWFq3g0YF1O7CKMuYXBzQcN1kOH5vWafMqKX8EHVC-k77zKO2W1AzaREZYjCz56HS9sofFsIDW0kNTKo0_Ds4MYkmaSHLtZ-W6al5xJ_2A7AUYqXWma8TXMwPvlMHU02-SR4/s320/NearChawton.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p><i>Picture: The path near Chawton (Jane Austen's house) in 1997. </i></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<b><span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Introduction: “<i>Wan
that Aprille...”<o:p></o:p></i></span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>April Fools Day, 1997.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eighteen inches of snow fell overnight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was up to my neck in the <i>Canterbury
Tales</i> and, frankly, not a happy pilgrim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The flowers of May seemed far away; England seemed far away; I had just
discovered, too late, that I didn’t like the Wife of Bath; and I was locked
into walking across England in six weeks time because I had blabbed about it so
much that now there was no way out without looking like an idiot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fear stalked me in the final weeks of
preparation—fear of physical pain, fear of being injured, but mostly the fear
of embarrassment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What if I couldn’t do
it?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>At the age of forty-one I wanted to
mark a year that was a turning point in my life by doing something completely
different; something that was physically challenging but also meaningful in
some way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My father had died a few
months earlier at the age of eighty-two, and as I reflected on his life, I
realized that the middle point had been the year I was born, when he was
forty-one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While my walk may have been
part of some mid-life crisis, I was not so bold as to identify it as the <i>middle
</i>point of my life, because I was also revisiting a lot of Jane Austen, and
she died at forty-one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I hadn’t read <i>The Canterbury Tales</i>
since high school, but the Wife of Bath character seemed like a great framework
on which to hang my adventure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
remembered her as a big, earthy, adventuresome woman, a sort of proto-Feminist
character (and not unlike myself, I thought).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>A walk from Bath to Canterbury seemed doable in a month.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I sketched out a rough route and timetable,
wrote a proposal to take a sabbatical from my teaching position, and laid plans
through the winter for a long walk to begin in the middle of May.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>In retrospect, the logical way to begin
preparing for a long walk is probably to do a lot of walking, but being a
sedentary creature by both inclination and habit, I did most of my preparation
by reading.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first book was the
greatest disappointment; when it came time to reacquaint myself with the Wife
of Bath I found that I didn’t like her.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The things I had remembered were still there, she was big, earthy, and
adventuresome, but Chaucer made all those things into jokes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She was, in fact, the antithesis of the model
woman of the medieval period.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She was
also a book burner, the victim (and practitioner) of spousal abuse, and told a
story about a rapist-knight in King Arthur’s court.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As I had planned my trip around her, this was
something of a disappointment, but the tale did provide me with an opportunity
to incorporate the Arthurian sites of southern England into my route, and I
still had a fallback position in Elizabeth Bennet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>There was no question about what I
thought of Jane Austen’s heroine, because I have started each of the last
twenty-five years by reading <i>Pride and Prejudice.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most recently I read it as I sat with my
father in his last days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>Pride and
Prejudice</i> is like an old friend to me, and as Jane Austen’s life was
largely lived along the trail between Bath and Canterbury, I thought that
Elizabeth Bennet could provide a good counterpoint to the Wife of Bath.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>These were the things on my mind as I
bought several maps and began to plan a walk that would take thirty days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The route would incorporate several of the
great medieval pilgrimage sites:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bath,
Wells, Glastonbury, Shaftesbury, Salisbury, Winchester, Westminster,
Canterbury; all the places mentioned in Canterbury Tales:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Southwark, Deptford, Greenwich, Rochester,
Sittingbourne, Boughton, Harbledown and Canterbury; several of the King Arthur
Sites:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bath/Badon, Glastonbury, Cadbury,
Broadchalke, Winchester; and the Jane Austen sites of Bath, Winchester, Chawton
and London.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>As a weaver and a traveller, Dame
Alison would have found herself perfectly situated at Bath.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From nearby Bristol she would have departed
for her voyages to the continent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By the
fourteenth century regular connections made it possible for a woman to travel
in company to the coast of Spain, where the Wife, along with thousands of other
English pilgrims visited the shrine of Santiago de Compostela.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On a voyage to Rotterdam she could have made
her connection down the Rhine to Cologne to see the relics of the three
kings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And after visiting Rome she would
have sailed from Venice for her three trips to Jerusalem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chaucer mentions her visits to each of these
places.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Though he doesn’t mention any
English pilgrimages besides Canterbury, she would also certainly have visited
those important sites in her own neighborhood, Wells and Glastonbury, as well
as those a bit further afield.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Her own
route would almost certainly have been more direct to London than mine was, and
we know that she rode a horse rather than walked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chaucer describes her as a good horsewoman,
riding astride at a time most women rode side-saddle, and the earliest picture
of her, in the Ellesmere manuscript, shows her comfortably sitting on the back
of a horse, a whip in her hand, spurs on her feet<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I tried to get in a bit of a walk each
day in the weeks before I left, but one thing or another generally got in the
way, though I did make a walk of about two miles along the bike path in Woods
Hole several times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I bought two good
pairs of shoes, each of which cost more than any pair of shoes I had ever
owned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The French Mephistos were touted
as the best walking shoes by everyone I asked, and those and a pair of Nikes
would, I figured, meet whatever surface came along.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I wore one or the other of them constantly
for several weeks and had them comfortably broken in by the time I left.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>My pack was heavy with the extra shoes,
a laptop computer (with a battery charger and electrical adapter), a medical
kit, and several pounds of books and other research materials.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I brought only one change of clothes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During the time that I was making these
preparations, I read two books that greatly influenced the way I was thinking
about my walk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first was Hilaire
Belloc’s classic, <i>The Old Road,</i> the other was A. Wainwright’s <i>Pennine
Journey.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also read <i>The
Canterbury Tales</i> in a verse translation, a prose translation, and began to
struggle through the original Middle English.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Belloc would become important from
Winchester westward for a few days, but Wainwright began to effect me
immediately.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wainwright is pretty much
the doyen of English long-distance walkers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>He wrote some forty guide books on the subject and pioneered several
routes, including a coast-to-coast walk from St. Bees Head to Robin Hood’s
Bay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(When I told people that I was
going to walk across England, the first response was usually: “Are you going
with a group?”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The second question was
“Are you doing St. Bees Head to Robin Hood’s Bay?”)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When I began to consider making a walk, my
friend Gaby Kaye gave me a copy of Wainwright’s book, <i>A Pennine Journey: The
Story of a Long Walk in 1938.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Wainwright effected me in three
ways:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>his description of himself as a
walker made me realize how much I did <i>not</i> know about what I was doing;<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>he made me very afraid of bulls; and he made
me reconsider again my evolving position on the Wife of Bath.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The truth is that Wainwright, while a stylish
writer, is also a sexist pig, and his musings on women made me ponder again
what Chaucer was up to, and how much the attitudes of English men had evolved
in five hundred years.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; tab-stops: .5in;">
<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Wainwright wore a flannel suit on his
walk, complete with vest & tie; he carried no other clothes, and slept in
his suit at least twice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He walked some
twenty miles a day, in the process climbing, crossing, and descending ridges of
2000 feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He knew his pace so well, he
claimed, that after a careful study of the map and the landscape, a quick
glance at his watch would tell him his exact position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clearly Wainwright would not be my
model.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because I could walk two miles in
my lunch hour, I presumed I could walk eight to ten miles a day without a
problem—given that walking would be my primary occupation on this trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I rejected the advice of my brother and other
detractors that I ought to walk eight to ten miles a day for a few weeks before
setting out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had no idea what my pace
was, I wasn’t sure I was going to even wear a watch, but I did share
Wainwright’s love of maps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His comments
about women goaded me on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Three different
times he says women lack imagination, he never “witnessed genuine enthusiasm in
one of them.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Sometimes there was the
“pretense of it” but the “divine spark” was missing.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>According to Wainwright “it is the
comparative deficiency in intellect that makes woman’s claim for equality with
man pathetic.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Women are “strangers to
dependability” and “have not the rigid standards of men, nor the same
loyalty.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It comes as no surprise when
Wainwright confides that he finds his own company “vastly entertaining.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I liked Alison, the Wife of Bath, better for
having read Wainwright.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What English
women have had to put up with!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #215868; font-family: "times"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Old friends Joan and Ron Gould offered
me a base of operations from their home on Paradise Walk in London, a cellular
phone to use in case of an emergency on the road, and a ride to Bath to get
started.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I flew from Boston to Heathrow
on the 14th of May 1997 filled with enthusiasm and trepidation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6021617543698277636.post-9391151855743588682016-12-03T07:51:00.001-08:002016-12-03T07:51:44.536-08:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>When Research Bogs Down </b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Today I am wrestling with the problem of how much
research is enough. I am writing a book about the history of museums that will survey
3000 years of collecting and display, and I’ve now spent almost six months
researching the Holy Roman Emperor Rudolf II (1552-1612). I feel like I’m in
some sort of Renaissance wormhole; it is really interesting but how do I get
out of it? When is enough information enough? (At this point, this is a very
rhetorical question—I know I am long past the point of having plenty of
information on this guy. He should take up something like 2-3 pages in my book at
most, and yet I have over 40 pages of notes, and I’m finding that as I pick up
new sources they are repeating things about him that I already know.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">It is hard to shake a process that has worked on
projects that are much more tightly focused than this one. When I wrote about
American trade on the Northwest Coast at the turn of the nineteenth century, it
was necessary to read all the primary sources that I could identify as well as
all of the secondary literature. Capt. Sam Hill’s biography required that I
read every single thing ever written by him or about him, in addition to the
contextual works of historians working on related topics. I have developed certain
habits that have worked well for me in those books: I read the source
materials, mark the passages that I think I might quote directly or that have
essential knowledge for background, then set them up on my bookstand and enter
them into my computer. * (I am attaching a picture of my bookstand and computer
on my table today, where I have dolled up my workspace with flowers and candles
to entice me to stay in one place and work earnestly.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">After thirty years of following this practice, I now
need to shake it up a bit. This week I must put Rudolf back into the ground
where he belongs and move on. (I still have to deal with other royals too,
because they were important collectors, but King Charles I of England has got
to be dealt with much more expeditiously, and what about the Russians?) One of
the important things to do now is back away from the details and see the book
as a whole, and this section as one part of it. It is also crucial to
acknowledge that everything I have learned won’t be in this book; my job as the
author is to decide what you as the reader will find most interesting, and what
will best bring my best grandiose notions forward. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">If, when I have finished writing it and you have
finished reading it, you find that you want to know more about Rudolf, I will
recommend additional reading.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">*I need to make a note here that this process frequently gives me real
concerns about the potential of accidentally plagiarizing another writer. It is
important that I use different fonts or colored fonts to keep their words separate
from mine in my text files.<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6021617543698277636.post-36824164879640040102015-06-20T12:48:00.000-07:002015-06-20T12:53:34.724-07:00Shipboard Source Materials: Logbooks and Journals<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 200%;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">I described in my last entry how I
used shipboard logbooks and journals in writing the biography of Captain Samuel
Hill, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Devil on the Deep Blue Sea.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is essential in looking at the maritime career
of an individual to look at every document that describes his or her life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Today, however, I’m pondering what sort of
shipboard sources I might use to add realistic detail to my current <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">fictional</i> project, a novel tentatively called
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Descent into Piracy of a Lady of
Quality.</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 200%;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Over the last thirty years I have
probably looked at around 500 manuscript logbooks or journals in support of
various projects, from understanding trade in ports on the Pacific coast and in
Polynesian Islands, to looking at weather patterns to understand climate
change.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 200%;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">There are several reasons why a
mariner keeps a chronological account of a voyage. It can serve as
a legal record in case of incident or accident, document a claim of new
territory, provide data that can be incorporated into nautical charts and
tables of winds and currents, and record information to guide subsequent
voyages in exploration, commerce, war, and the harvesting of marine
resources.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A shipboard diary can also be
a place where physical and emotional hardships, and exultations of rapture are
scribbled secretly, intended to be shared with no one else.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 200%;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The terms “logbook” and “journal”
are often used interchangeably, but a ship’s logbook is technically a legal
document, recording daily details of weather, wind direction, position,
soundings, and course traveled, and surrendered to the vessel’s owner at the
conclusion of the voyage. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A journal is a
personal account, kept by any member of a ship’s company for his or her own
private motives.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both kinds of documents
can include descriptions of ports-of-call and of people encountered on a
voyage, incidents of trade, and accounts of disciplinary actions and other
aspects of shipboard life, as well as the standard nautical entries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A journal might also include private thoughts
and observations, poems, song texts, and scientific data.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(My husband, Stuart Frank, wrote a doctoral
dissertation on the songs sung aboard American whaling vessels by examining song
texts written by sailors into their journals. There is a book that resulted
from that work: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Jolly Sailors Bold:
Ballads & Songs of the American Sailor.</i>)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 200%;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">I don’t recommend that anyone
starting to research a novel with scenes set on shipboard go to a manuscript
collection and begin poring through logs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They are often hard to read, mostly tedious, and can be difficult to
understand without a pretty solid context.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Fortunately, many of the most useful and literate examples have been
published, some of which are the actual shipboard chronicle; others are
narratives put together later using the shipboard sources.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 200%;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">Because my new novel is set at the
end of the eighteenth century, I have the great advantage of being able to use
the narratives of James Cook’s three voyages to the Pacific Ocean, which have
detailed accounts of how the ships work, how islands are approached,
relationships with local people in dozens of ports, and observations of how
people live, what the landscape looks like, and what birds and animals are
encountered there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One must, of course,
always read accounts that are 250 years old with a critical eye toward the
implicit racial and cultural biases of the time, but such good sources are not
to be rejected on that count.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We learn a
lot about the time we are exploring by understanding how relationships
worked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 200%;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">The dramatic potential of a sea voyage
has been explored since ancient times, with Odysseus and Sinbad being only two
among many fictional captains whose exploits have been celebrated in folk
literature from the shores of several continents. It provides the author with a
perfect opportunity to test her hero (or increasingly her heroine) not only
against the known dangers of enemies and the elements, but against the unknown
world beyond, where fantastic and exotic adventures wait. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: large;">If you want to know more about
shipboard sources, I have written two encyclopedia articles on this topic, and
took some of this description from them: “Autobiographies, Journals and
Diaries,” in the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Encyclopedia of Maritime
History</i> (Oxford University Press, 2007), and “Logs and Journals” in the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Encyclopedia of American Literature of the
Sea and Great Lakes</i> (Greenwood Press, 2000).</span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhblqGdK7FHnOYk2P4y_-etiDjaMsyZidyz3n39fyGp0PwQ_6qL03JZUQuNNJxS04NRUgBFmBlXiEsVyZccyvEDEK_H5v61iIaFSNKC9jrasQzoSaKhx7rEHM3iyUlvCakavA5qq1KcE9w/s1600/436_1_50.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhblqGdK7FHnOYk2P4y_-etiDjaMsyZidyz3n39fyGp0PwQ_6qL03JZUQuNNJxS04NRUgBFmBlXiEsVyZccyvEDEK_H5v61iIaFSNKC9jrasQzoSaKhx7rEHM3iyUlvCakavA5qq1KcE9w/s320/436_1_50.png" width="239" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1vLfkBcgwWyWn6xfNIoKarXBNgS0fAEZUPOs5IGSr9No3i2Rb2TxnvYc62a35hK-f5pEHuulX-bcB5byVoMrzad6gvjIXPSJYUlT_JpfLFacPARUKqZFNImlHBaWVl_JUA2HuW94xzTY/s1600/436_1_13.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1vLfkBcgwWyWn6xfNIoKarXBNgS0fAEZUPOs5IGSr9No3i2Rb2TxnvYc62a35hK-f5pEHuulX-bcB5byVoMrzad6gvjIXPSJYUlT_JpfLFacPARUKqZFNImlHBaWVl_JUA2HuW94xzTY/s320/436_1_13.png" width="250" /></a></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;"><b style="line-height: 200%;">Image caption: </b><span style="line-height: 200%;"> These are two pages from the logbook of Captain Joseph Ingraham, aboard the ship <i>Hope</i> of Boston, 1790-92. This manuscript is in the collection of the Library of Congress and you can view the whole thing online at http://www.wdl.org/en/item/436/view/1/1/. This is a particularly nice example! Don't expect that every log is this lovely to read or holds such delights.</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6021617543698277636.post-56892445374812406312015-06-11T04:13:00.000-07:002015-06-11T04:13:49.191-07:00Following Sources<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">In 1803, the American ship <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Boston</i> was captured at Nootka Sound on
Vancouver Island and all the crew but two were murdered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the survivors, John Jewitt, wrote
about his experiences as a captive for two years of the Nuu-cha-Nulth chief
Maquinna.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the very end of the book,
Jewitt wrote a terse description of his rescue by another American ship, the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Lydia,</i> under the command of Captain
Samuel Hill.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">While working on a history of
American ships engaged in a trade for sea otter pelts on the Northwest Coast, I
came across Jewitt’s 1815 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Narrative of
Adventures and Suffering</i>, and also found two journals written by men
serving on the<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Lydia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></i>The story they told was of </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">what
sailors referred to as a “hell ship.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The men were always poised
and ready to mutiny; the original first officer had already been
dismissed and put off the ship for challenging the authority of the captain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Three different men served as chief mate in
the course of the voyage, each more brutal than his predecessor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A young Hawaiian woman lived in the captain’s
cabin as his sexual hostage, and the captain himself behaved like a madman.
This was the situation into which the <i>Boston </i>survivors escaped.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">I thought I would write a book that compared
the two captivities of John Jewitt, first among the Indians, and then aboard
the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Lydia.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the more I looked into the character of
Capt. Samuel Hill, the more he demanded that the book be about him. </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Hill was
Forrest Gump-like in his peripheral appearance at important historical events
at the turn of the nineteenth century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>He was the first American to live in Japan, he was at the Columbia River
at the same time as Lewis & Clark, he was captured as a Privateer during
the War of 1812, rescued captives of Indians and pirates, was in Chile during
the Chilean Revolution, and in Hawaii when the great King Kamehameha died.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Throughout all this he was a beastly rapist
and murderer, a tyrannical and abusive captain—and a literate and persuasive
writer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">It was the extraordinary wealth of source materials that led
to my writing a biography of Hill, and it is my advice to anyone writing
non-fiction history that they let the available sources steer the direction of
their project.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In addition to the two
manuscript journals of the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Lydia </i>voyage,
I found three associated with Hill’s next Northwest Coast voyage on the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Otter,</i> papers related to the ship <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Franklin’s</i> voyage to Japan in 1799, and
two logbooks in Hill’s own hand of voyages he commanded on the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ophelia </i>and<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Packet </i>from Boston to Chile and China, as well as logbooks or journals from several ships
he met along the way.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Hill was described by the Chinook Indians to
Lewis and Clark, and he appears both in the explorers’ journals and on one of
their charts—where they named a bay after him. There are also court records
from two lawsuits, when an angry Hill sued the owners of ships he
commanded.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He wrote epic letters and
even an unpublished (and misleading) “autobiography” where he tried to square
his monstrous past with a new born-again Christianity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He was before his time in trying to manipulate
his own image by writing articles for Boston newspapers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">I used many standard sources for biographers,
including genealogies, city directories, a cemetery plot, and church records. I
also looked at art and objects, and found a rich record of life in the Dutch
settlement in Japan during Hill’s time, portraits of the ship <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Franklin,</i> and even objects that Hill
must have had his hands on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(See more
about hats collected by Lewis & Clark at </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://www.lewis-clark.org/article/2981?ArticleID=2981">http://www.lewis-clark.org/article/2981?ArticleID=2981</a>.)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">There are details about all the sources
in the book, and you can read much of it on this webpage at <a href="http://www.marymalloy.net/inside1.htm%231">http://www.marymalloy.net/inside1.htm#1</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>New copies of the book are available at Sea
Ocean Book Berth in Seattle and at Frank’s Fisherman in San Francisco.</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">In the next blog I will describe
in greater detail what researchers can find in shipboard logbooks and journals,
and how to get access to them. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<a name='more'></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6021617543698277636.post-66651164849600716612015-06-10T15:33:00.003-07:002015-06-10T15:43:09.710-07:00Fiction and Non-Fiction<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Because I write both
non-fiction history and history-based fiction, I am frequently asked to talk
about the difference. </span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">There is a real distinction for me between
scholarly nonfiction and novel writing in that the former requires that I stick
close to my source materials in the conclusions I draw. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">I started writing <span style="mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">my first novel, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Wandering Heart,</i>
</span>when I was working on a doctoral dissertation at Brown University, in
part to allow me to explore the historian’s fantasy of having evidence come
easily to hand rather than being the result of a methodical and often tedious
process. I start the research for every project with some idea about where it
is heading, but I am always prepared to let the documents I find change the
direction or focus of the work. It can be frustrating when long hours of
research do not result in evidence that will support your ideas, so I made it
easy for my heroine, Lizzie Manning, to find things by creating the kind of
evidence I would love to find myself. All the journal entries, letters,
objects, poems and paintings in the book are fictional but I was inspired by
historical examples. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The central house
in the book was also constructed entirely in my head and on the page, but I
used about a dozen sources on historic English homes to create it.</span><span style="font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">Writing a novel allowed me to stray from the
sources, so that I could add new material to existing texts and even invent
whole new documents, objects, and works of art, but I still wanted the book to
be grounded in the process of historical research, and to introduce readers to
how that process works. In order to give Lizzie some veracity as a historian, I
gave her my own specialties: maritime history, museums, and Northwest Coast
Indian cultural anthropology, but the situations I write about never happened, and the book is not autobiographical. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">I must admit that it is fun to take an actual site and write a new
history for it, and I have done that several times. In <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Wandering Heart,</i> for instance, there is a scene set in
Salisbury Cathedral, where I found the tomb of a knight who died on a crusade
in 1256 in Mansoura, Egypt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
circumstances of his death provided good details for one of my character’s
ancestors, and I made the Salisbury corpse his comrade. I also took advantage
of a small adjacent tomb as a burial place for the mummified heart of my own crusader
character (and then exhumed it with the assistance of a totally made-up crew of
cathedral workers). <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">If this topic is of interest, I discuss it in some greater length in the
“Reader’s Guide” section of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Wandering
Heart.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></i></span>
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">In the next post, I intend to write about how the whole subject matter of the non-fiction <i>Devil on the Deep Blue Sea: The Notorious Career of Captain Samuel Hill of Boston,</i> changed when I found unexpected documentation of the beastly mariner. The book was not intended to be about him, but somehow he took over the project! </span></span></span><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>I<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">mage: </span></b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Read more about the painting on the cover of <i>The Wandering Heart, </i>Frederick William Burton's 1864 <i>Meeting on the Turret Stairs,</i> at the "Cover Art" link on this webpage.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 15.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><br /></span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6021617543698277636.post-56629609414675400592015-06-05T12:10:00.000-07:002015-06-10T15:45:57.386-07:00Changing Course<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">I am a writer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">This is the first time that I have called myself
that in preference to “teacher.” It acknowledges a change in my life as I
take a leap and leave my job of 24 years at the Sea Education Association in
Woods Hole, Massachusetts to devote myself to writing full time. (I will
still teach a class each term in the Harvard Museum Studies program, but more
about that in another entry.)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">Two projects will be the focus of this blog for the
next year or so: a non-fiction history of museums, and a novel about an
aristocratic Englishwoman who is reduced to piracy at the turn of the
nineteenth century. These are obviously very different subjects and
approaches, but they have requirements in common, primarily a need for good
research. My plan is to talk about sources, how to find good ones, how to
read them effectively, and how to incorporate them into both fiction and
non-fiction.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 16.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;">For years I have told students that I have a tattoo
that says “Writing is a Process,” and I will admit now that while it isn’t actually
physically inked on my body, it has been tapped into my brain by thousands of
little pinpricks of information that get embedded there in the course of
reading, traveling, looking at works of art, listening to music, and writing,
writing, writing. Neither research nor writing are easy for me, but they
are enormously satisfying, and I hope that in pondering and recording the
process, others traveling along the same road will find something worthwhile.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
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<b><br /></b>
<b>Image: </b> The <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Robert C. Seamans</i>
at Hao atoll in French Polynesia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In my
time at SEA, I sailed on this vessel on the American west coast from Alaska to California, around Polynesia and
New Zealand, and from Tahiti to Hawaii.<o:p></o:p></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2